A couple weeks ago i started a thread about my 98 disco 1, trying to figure out what was wrong.
Well i started messing around the other day after i charged up my battery at work (Advance Auto). Hooked it up and tried starting the truck again, and it fired then shut off.
So, i got curious and checked the fuel pressure by just pressing in the valve and not the slightest bit of fuel came out, so i tried it again with the key in the 2nd position, nothing.
After about 2 months of frustration it turns out my problems are actually my fuel pump. I thought it wasnt the problem b/c it would fire and run for a couple minutes, I guess it was fuel built up in the EVAP system? no clue.
Anyways, does anyone know of a cheaper Airtex fuel pump that will work with the disco 1. the airtex the computer pulls up at work was $300-$400 i think. There must be a pump that works for cheaper.

 

keep searching here for more options as there are quite few that will work.....but I believe that AC Delco # EP241 works and the strainer # is TS7. You should also plan on a new fuel filter and possibly a new locking ring and seal.

 

There are other pumps. much cheaper, that will work. But they are just the pump/motor, not complete drop in assembly. But changing just the pump in you're assembly is not hard. And much worth saving 300-400 dollars.

BTW, I wish I knew your's were that cheap, I paid almost $600 at autozone for a complete assembly

http://www.bputah.com/Disco%20Parts/...1020_Part.html

 

sounds good, ill cross those numbers over at work today. The fuel filter is new as of a couple months ago when all the problems started.

Sucks about your auto zone pump kenk. Auto zone usually has better prices than we do.

 

I bought mine at AutoZone Kenk, they matched Advance's price plus I had $40 in reward points.
But it was still $400.

 

Here's a direct drop in for the AEL:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1...nd-sender.aspx

I have the pre AEL which was only $105. The top of mine was cracked. I still have the old pump and filter assembly from my original one. It still works, don't know if it is the same for both pre ael and ael.

If you want it cheap, let me know as I really have no use for it but did not want to throw it away.

 

well, its been a while, but I finally took the time last week to rebuild the fuel pump, and now she fires right up! I had also forgotten I had cut the cats out a month ago while trying to find out what was wrong with the rover, so when i started it, its scared the s**t out of me and half the cars in the parking lot, setting off a few alarms and pissing off the neighbors.
I drove it for about a week with the exhaust dumping straight out the manifolds before I took it to a friends and hijacked his welder and some pipe. Now she sounds much better and I dont need to keep a bottle of headache medicine in the truck.

All in all it the fuel pump repair was easy and pretty cheap (about $50 with my employee discount at Advance). The hardest part of the repair for me was getting the bucket off the bottom of the assembly, it was pretty cold outside and my hands were soaked in fuel so my fingers didnt want to move the way i wanted them too.

Now all I need to do is figure out why the ABS light wont go away. I saw something the other day, somewhere on the net, where someone converted to hydraulic assisted brakes. So, I am going to heavily investigate this, seeing as I have spent most of my repair $$$ over the years on this issue.
After that is fixed the rover is either going taller or my bimmer is going lower, DECISIONS!!!

 

there is a blink code procedure on the tech tab to read ABS codes. It is super easy on a 98. short pins 5 and 15 on the OBD port with a paperclip. Check out the procedure..

 

If you want manual brakes with no ABS, open the hood, find the fuse box, open fuse box, remove the 30A ABS pump fuse.
Close fuse box, close hood.
Now you will have manual brakes.

In the tech section is how to figure out what is wrong with your ABS.