Sounds like an adventure tail, hope you left the German Shepherds at home.

You could easily destroy the engine trying to drive it in that condition. Isn't Denver getting about a foot of snow right now?

Go to Eric's house, he's fast become an expert in HG teardown.

 

I live in Grants Pass, about an hour north of Ashland. Henry's Foreign Auto in Medford is the local Rover expert shop. They could take care of the HG job for you, at a price of course. They also have a Defender for sale for 45,000. Worst case you could drive that home

I received my HG kit a few weeks ago. I'm no expert on judging HG kit quality but it looks good to me. Includes more than you'll need likely. I'm doing a full rebuild so my whole engine is currently at the machine shop. I'll begin reassembly once they're done prepping it.

From my experience, the HG job is a lot of work. You'll need lots of room to work and for the parts you remove. You'll spill fluids everywhere and get covered in oil. You may break a few parts as they're removed. You'll want good quality tools as some hardware is difficult to remove. You'll need to take lots of pictures to remember how everything goes back together. The RAVE is helpful but sometimes omits frustrating details.

 

That is the best advice yet. Driving it and planning to fix it road-side if needed is foolhardy.

Buy the Defender, and either use the Discovery as a down payment/trade-in or trailer it home.

Driving it cross-country in that condition is an invitation for disaster. Especially in the winter thru the Rockies.

We moved from Atlanta to Denver in fall of 1982, shortly thereafter, I bought an already lifted Dodge RamCharger with a big block and MT 36's on it. That Christmas, our holiday period was being cancelled by the company due to schedule being behind.

One morning just prior to Christmas Eve, it started to snow heavily. At noon, the VP ccame over the PAsystem and made the following announcement. "The Lord has intervened on our plans to cancel Christmas Vacation. The State Police have called and asked me to close the plant as they will be closing all roads east of the Rockies within a few hours until the storm subsides. Enjoy Christmas."

We were snowed in for the next two weeks straight. I could see out our kitchen windows but my wife could not, the snow was almost six feet deep at the house.
My RamCharger was totally encased in snow and did not move for two weeks.

With the Rockies, you never know how deep snow will get.

 

ok all you guys are funny....#1 if i could afford the defender I wouldnt be worried about this disco at all so back to reality..

and of course my dogs ARE WITH ME AND A GOOD THING TOO SINCE THEY WOULD BE STARVING AT HOME....or costing me a fortune in boarding bills which would completely screw my chance of ever getting fixed and home

so getting back to real life

Ok .....HG kit will be here tomorrow... Im gonna go ahead and do it even though all signs of trouble have vanished I guess....have now put on 300 miles since the Kseal and still see no other signs of HG failure....

However I have a few questions ....
1# I have been throwing 2 codes for some time P1179 and P430 ....whats interesting is that they have usually come back following one of my temp rise episodes....I have cleared them now since the k seal and they have not come back yet..... is it possible/ what are the chances that this leaking HG was causing these codes?

#2 So it seems I am headed into the engine ....and am figuring I might as well give a good look around in there ...so a) is there anything I need to know about replacing worn tappets.....keep reading to make sure the push rods /rockers arms go back into same pattern from which they came ....
please inform what is the purpose of this? and what if I get new push rods? tappets? rocker arms then what? whole set to be new ? looking for physics...mechanical reasoning....theories helpful if back up by fact

looking for an explanation along with the answer so that i can understand ....the importance/dynamics behind it....I am assuming already that I will have some worn tappets.....i have 138,000 miles

anyone that can point me to write ups....videos ....written material greatly appreciated.........anyone that can explain throughly my hero...thanks so much ....ps I have the RAVE so no need to suggest this....also have a write up from 1997 Land Rover replace catalytic converter and head gaskets so im looking for more info for my adventure ....thanks....so much really

Eric- "Henry's Foreign Auto in Medford is the local Rover expert shop"

is this who could plane the heads for me after they are out?

and do you think theyll give me 44,000 for my disco? LOL

 

p1179 is a out of range code for mass air flow, can be caused by vacuum leak, which could be HG and overheat related. Intake manifold bolts need to be tightened?

The reason to put rods and tappets back as they came is to keep the mechanical wear matched. Or whole set new. Or just one if that is all the budget can stand. However you will get increased wear. But don't throw them in a shoe box and shake them up...

Usually heads are done by places that promote themselves as automotive machine shops, cylinder head specialists, etc. Most mechanics send out to them. If you have a NAPA parts dealer (or other major dealers) they will know who does it in your area.

Please look in the RAVE under general and overhaul.

 

savannah- you are fast ok so I have concidered the vacuum leak issue and i have this cool vacuum pressure gauge is this any help to me? where should / can i hook it up too / what do i do with it? I can not find any instructions for using it ....i know i bought it to work on my trooper years ago... and have had it in its case .....dont remember....how why ?

 

I also had an Isuzu trooper back about 18 years ago. You could connect it with a "T" to a vac line that runs to the plenum. But then you don't know what number to expect, and have to wiggle everything, spray canned torch gas around suspect areas, etc. One of the pro Rover techs mentioned a method where you take hose off air filter, and push an oil filter or similar can intyo the hose and clamp. Guess that would make vac leak whistle like hell

 

also on the "return things from wence they came" issue I have figured this was due to wear ...so lemme see if i am understanding... if i replace tappets I should replace push rod ...rocker....if I see signs of wear...such as brown spots on the metel ....or other such things such as mentioned here RPi Engineering - V8 Engines

if by chance i have tappets showing wear....but the push rod , rocker doesnot AM I SAFE TO REUSE? or should I just replace the whole set as good measure ...i have never been this far in im more than nervous been studying for days on end printing blowing up poictures taping up them in garage using highlighters and making lists....really dont want to go in again because I misunderstood treat me like im 2nd grade for a minute

 

ok so there is no known number to expect? ,,,,figures....I am curious i read cruise is vacuum driven mine is non functioning....could this be anything? besides a bummer when driving long distance.....? lol also I am curious i have seen so many different opnions... MY FUEL RAIL DOES NOT HOLD PRESSURE....but DOES READ 35 PSI AFTER THE FUEL PUMP KICKS ON..does this mean anything useful? ie....its been sitting here now for couple hours and no fuel comes out the port when pushed....psi 0

also about the oil filet thing ....wont the truck shut off rather quickly from lack of air?

 

also hey i bought this part err4763 c/c breather (vacuum hose? of some sort) ...some time ago i just have never really decided where it goes ....it was cheap....seemed like good thing to do preventative wise....but for the life of me there is no site that shows me where the thing goes...I am sure the previous owner has replaced the hose with some other hose and it is nothing like the one that should be there and that is the reason i cannot seem to find one that looks like it under my hood .....besides the fact that im a little dah ....on the names of all these parts to begin with...so if anyone could point to it IN A PHOTO that would be so cool... see i thought I was ordering the part on the passenger side that connects to the separator/plenum.....but no....so there is another one on the drivers side front ....next to the hose that comes from the maf....it goes into the throttle body? and connects to the driver side valve cover ? just behind the oil fill cap ......

people have mentioned some t fitting near this area...io do not think i have? also I see spike has mentioned getting new upper hose with some t valve...or ?? if anyone can make sense of what im saying ....cool otherwise ...im still searching ....really for a nice picture with some sort of explanantion

also the diagram of the vacuum system under my hood is the worst ive ever seen