Eric, those sound great, I appreciate the tip. Since my set did not include bolts, those look like the way to go.

 

Very important to get new bolts, they stretch once on installation.

 

Research also suggests the ARP specified torque value of 80 ft-lb is too high, and 60/66 ft-lb is more reasonable. Commonly applied in 20-40-60/66 steps.

 

Let us not make newton/meters and foot/pounds equal....

Would question both your sets of numbers - from overhaul manual section of RAVE for 3.9 engine, and attachment for 4.0 engine (same as suffix B):



Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Further 90

 

Thanks Buzz. Corrected a few typos.

ARP Head Stud Installation Method PDF

 

this is the oil I use http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/Sp.../amo_10W40.pdf

also should be attached below....I hear rotella also has Zinc .....however I like synthetics all the way around and really dont mind the cost of them I do not use the extended intervals though.....I change out every 3,000 -5,000 depending on how it looks...I have Amsoil in every part of my rover and I think she likes it Usually buy it in bulk and have it delivered straight to the house.....

ihscouts--machinist said the same about being able to remove the tappets....if you can remove them they are probably good ....cuz concaved ones wont come out and need to be removed through the bottom ......

All of mine came out through the top and look great.....When i first bought the truck they were kinda loud....switched out to the amsoil and never really heard them again

anyway spent an hour with the machine shop and learned a lot today about valve jobs and such .....I really like machinists think i'm gonna make a habit out of hangin out with more of em.... I really wanna know how to do all that ....and its so cool to get to work with clean parts!!! I got a great Deal and highly recommend

B & M MACHINE SHOP in Grants Pass Oregon...541-955-8187 Thanks guys......

. which by the way if anyone is ever looking for a 22r he builds them there and will ship them pretty much anywhere....at a pretty great price....That little toyota engine has always been a favorite of mine so It was good news to me .....already have informed several friends who have the old pickups they bop around their land with out in the desert...and some others that have a 22r motorhomes ....anyway very cool day much to do manana so goodnight

 

Glad the shop worked out for you. Quite a coincidence, you coming from Florida to Rogue Valley area, and both doing Rover V8 work.

 

indeed Eric....well thats the great thing about forums....coincidence....is just around the corner....Its so great to work on a rover due to the community....and then theRe are some cars you cant get any info on at all...like every car I try to help my family with....its like the cars they own have been banned from being discussed on the internet at all.....and with everything smoshed into their hood and 4 inches off the ground you cant find anything....cant even get half your face under it to look AROUND....I LOVE MY ROVER and THIS FORUM

Hope your job is coming along well......so did i see you say ever what the size the the crankshaft nut/bolt was over on your bottom end post?

 

SAVANNAH.....WOULD YOU BE WORRIED AT ALL ABOUT THAT .02 COMING OFF THE MACHINIST DEFINATELY WAS NOT....AND NOTED THAT THE BLOCK ALSO HAD SO MUCH THAT COULD COME OFF..so that in the end even if it was slightly out of spec as long as the block had not been taken down to its limit I AM ALL GOOD...makes sense to me.....should get a higher compression ...

 

I'm guessing it's because most family cars are terribly uninteresting pieces of mediocrity.

As for the crank bolt:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...06/#post272618