TimeBus,
It sounds like you made a great decision to go ahead and tear into it rather than risk a LONG trip back home under the conditions. And you found a great setup to work in. I admire you for doing all of that. Looks like you have a handle on all of it.

Keep us posted. Was that a German Shepherd in the pic? I have a wonderful one named Nikita and a fierce little longhair Daschaund named Shelby. I think the idea of adding some destination pics to your wall is a good idea as well.

Keep up the good work.

 

Actually I'm not sure. I'll have to check them out.

 

ET - from the overhaul manual section of the RAVE

 

yes that is Anna Baba shes 2 yrs old....rare black and silver shepherd...also have Max Moto 11yrs old below is a pic from our Colorado adventures this summer ....top of McAllister Gulch TrailDamage.com - McAllister Gulch

OK both heads off....and the good news so far is !! no slipped sleeves seems like 7&8 was the most likely cause of my leaks...7 showing signs of steam cleaning... started to clean up everything up a little but things are pretty nasty and I am super achy woke up today feeling like I was beat with A rubber mallet while i slept.... from my very scientific method of feeling the bottoms of the tappets they don't feel concave at all...but I will get more into cleaning and examining tomorrow...my power steering pump of all things sorta kicked my *** ...did not want to come off...couldnt find my 9mm socket allen and had to rig something up (a punch with vise grips attached)....so far I think these were the tightest bolts I had to remove during this project...or maybe im just getting too achy...

Eric....."Bearings and crank were definitely worn and needed to be addressed. Two connecting rods were bad and needed to be replaced".

About that ....what am I looking for here .....access through sump right?

 

Yes, remove the sump to access main bearing caps. Remove 6 bolts securing one of the middle caps. Examine bearing shell. Or save the hastle of removing the cap and just let the machine shop examine them.

I doubt feeling the tappets will tell you their wear condition accurately. Mine were all very worn yet would feel flat and smooth.

See here for more info: http://v8engines.com/engine-4.htm

 

Worn would "feel" concave. I'm sure they are. LR cams become inefficient at around 30k due to thin annealing (heat treating).

 

I have decided that someone has done some work to this engine at some point....I just dont feel like im looking at 138,000 miles .......had someonee come peek in on me today....and they thought the camshaft looked very decent....which was my feeling as well ....no not a land rover guy but a mechanic ....

he said he had never seen push rods with out oil holes through them....
since i have never seen any push rods but these ....I would like someone to confirm that there are none......oil ports that is ....through these push rods ....i have a black dot on each end ??

anywho.....tested valves with kerosene today and had no leaking at all over course of 5 MINS or so.....

shes cleaning up nicely and I believe after further examination of the headgaskets that I may have had some leakage between 3 & 5 so it'll be interesting to see if she has more power now...

ive never felt like this truck had anymore power than my 6 cylinder Isuzu Trooper....and everyone has just said it was normal......???

thanks for that info EricT very nice to see those figures will help me move forward >>

 

See attached pages from workshop manual and overhaul manual - appears not - however, if black dot was an oil sludge filled hole it should yield to solvent or metal probe. You do need to keep them organized, each goes back where it came from... and tappets (lifters) should all be same color.

 

Yep, no oil passages in the push rods. The oil just dribbles down the shaft as depicted in SB's first attachment.

I just pulled mine as well and had also never seen solid push rods.

 

Old Harley's and old V-8's OHV, kinda historic junk. I don't know why they bothered with aluminum rockers? It's no big deal other than the weight and type of oiling to the lifter. Both of you should check for mushroomed pushrods. They should look like a ball, round like a hip joint. If mushroomed they are short (obviously) and don't open the valve fully and again not a big deal other than breathing efficiency. The other thing is to roll them on a flat surface to check for warp. Bent rods are bad.

Speaking of rockers........when you guys get a free moment run a paper clip or small stiff wire through the rockers to the pushrod socket then soak in carb cleaner or seafoam. Keep in order when you remove them from the rocker shaft. Check shaft for undercutting, check rocker for ID, check socket for missing pushrod socket cap (common) and then clean shaft internally. Where the pedestal bolts run through allot of crud builds up and prevents even oiling and sometimes completely blocks up preventing any oiling. Compressed air after soak in carb cleaner, same with rockers. It might still clatter but at least it's getting top end oil where it needs to be. Almost always the rocker shaft wears worse than the rockers. There is a slot (runs parallel to shaft) in the rockers, if no slot or ghost of slot it's worn.