Ignitin off, wipers, heater blower, gear shift lights on??
See attached. The ignition switch has four sections, and no section (or pole) is connecting 12 volts thru on position "0". Some connect on 1 & 2, some on position 2 & 3, some only 2, some only position 3.
You can read for 12 volts to chassis at the different switch teminals, or at the various fuses down stream from them.
Would agree that it is likely your switch is worn and allowing contact between across two positions where normally not present. Contact cleaner may take care of this if it is just dirt and goop on the contacts bridging to an adjacent piece.
You can read for 12 volts to chassis at the different switch teminals, or at the various fuses down stream from them.
Would agree that it is likely your switch is worn and allowing contact between across two positions where normally not present. Contact cleaner may take care of this if it is just dirt and goop on the contacts bridging to an adjacent piece.
my ingnition switch seems to be ok. I pulled it appart and it is working fine. While appart and the switch deactivated, I am getting power back-fed into the switch from a different source. I pulled the window ecu, and all my problems stopped. Windows won't work, but the fan, wipers and all work ok now. I guess it is my window ecu....anyone ever had this problem.....
Thanks for all the help. Weird thing. I pulled the ignition switch and it seems to be ok. I can disconnect the battery and reconnect it, and the fan won't turn on. There is the one and only hot lead on the ignition after that. I turned on the ignition and turned it back off, and the fan comes on again. I dismantle the switch so there is no contacts. There is power being back-fed to the switch from somewhere. So I thought back to the projects done recently. I resoldered the window ecu so the back windows would work. I pulled the ecu and guess what, the back-fed power to the switch went away. All my weird things stopped, but of course the windows dont work with the ecu out. Weird!!!. Does anyone know If I put a new ecu in, that it will fix my problem, or is there something else I should check before putting in a new ecu so I don't mess up the new one?
A couple of possibilities still exist. Maybe when you resoldered the window ECU you accidently bridged or shorted something, go back and take another look at the ecu reflow job.
Also check to see if the connectors to the ecu may have a short there.
Also check to see if the connectors to the ecu may have a short there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
importdave
Discovery II
5
Sep 25, 2014 10:18 PM
caneraiser
Discovery II
1
Oct 27, 2012 07:35 AM
twaszak
Discovery II
6
Dec 28, 2010 01:37 PM
Lee1140
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
0
Dec 1, 2009 10:17 AM




