And that is exactly what I was trying to get you to understand with the AC Delco part, thats what you could have done, bought that part and rebuilt your pump.
Perhaps I did not express myself very well.

 

FYI

The pump does NOT ride up and down on the rails as the fuel level goes up and down!
The unit is made to compress upon installation, to keep the base of the pump against the bottom of the tank. This is to ensure it will pick up fuel until the tank is about dry.

 

Exactly.
I'm not going to sit here and debate the merits of replacing just the pump, that's already been done 100 times.
What I will do is say that just because Land Rover rolled our Discos off the assembly line a certain way doesn't mean it was the right or best way of doing things.
Examples:
Fuel filter. Placed exactly where it would be subject to the most amount of road grime, salt, and dirt. Fittings do not swivel. I lopped off the rusted fittings and replaced the filter with a generic double b a r b e d end one. Easy to change with a flat head screwdriver.

Fuel pump line fittings. On the AEL trucks the fuel line fittings at the pump were plastic and pushed on. These fittings are terrible. They are hard to get off and even harder to get back on. Again, I lopped off those fittings and used PT Schram's b a r b e d to compression fittings.

ABS modulator. Infamous for failing when you need it most. Spend thousands to "fix it the right way" or two seconds to pull the fuse and have normal brakes.

D2 wiper arms. Why the heck would LR make a wiper arm that takes a proprietary wiper blade? Doesn't seem like the best way to do things.

Tensioner pulley. Is it wrong to replace just the bearing? Would fixing it the "right way" call for buying a whole new unit? I've replaced the bearing in 4 tensioner pulleys and theyre all still on the road with no trouble.

Replacing just the pump is quite simple. These things aren't rocket science. They're just a collection of clips, wires, and hoses. The truck and fuel pump housing don't know the difference between the original and replacement pumps. They're a direct fit and require no splicing or hackery. Like anything else, take your time and be careful.

I've made all these repairs, except the wiper arms. I feel more confident in my repairs than I would in new, prone to failing, LR parts.

 

I agree 100%, I choose to fix some things the "correct" way and other things the "right" way.
My tensioner pulley I replaced just the pulley and not the whole tensioner, it was like $15 from AutoZone, I dont have a press.
I still use the OEM fuel filter, mine is not all buggered up...yet.
Fuel pump I didnt mess around, $600 at AutoZone with a lifetime warranty.
Pulled ABS pump fuse years ago.

 

Rather expensive route. At least you finally understood what Antichrist was saying, just the guts are needed not the whole basket..hallelujah!

 

I stand corrected on my mis-statement. Glad you got it working.