So what did you do to your Disco today?
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,450
Likes: 2
From: Upstate South Carolina
I'm considering removing my lift as well, but keeping the extended shocks.
Stock pro's:
Perfect geometry
Longer bushing life
Better articulation
Softer ride
Lower center of gravity
Less overall height to clear obstacles
Lift pro's:
Better approach, departure, and break over angles
With F/R bumpers and sliders, my angles are already very good, so that's not even needed. To fit larger tires I'll just cut the fenders, a much better approach.
Stock pro's:
Perfect geometry
Longer bushing life
Better articulation
Softer ride
Lower center of gravity
Less overall height to clear obstacles
Lift pro's:
Better approach, departure, and break over angles
With F/R bumpers and sliders, my angles are already very good, so that's not even needed. To fit larger tires I'll just cut the fenders, a much better approach.
Keep the lift, cut the fenders and get some big boy tires!
Last edited by CUpgt; Jul 8, 2013 at 03:54 PM.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 18
From: Oregon
I have no problems with my current 2" lift other than all the standard disadvantages.
Stock softer springs conform to irregular surfaces better. They're also taller (counterintuitive) which maintains downward pressure on droop.
Geometry can never be returned to stock (without lengthening wheelbase), even with castor corrected radius arms, drilled swivel *****, or offset radius arms. They just push the problem elsewhere to make it more tolerable. DC driveshafts are more complicated, heavier, weaker, and expensive.
These trucks are engineered very well. The only change necessary to fit larger tires, up to a point, is fender cutting. After that, lift is required, but I'm not interested in that much compromise. For me, removing lift gains much and looses little.
Look at formula off-road rigs, big tires and low as possible with good armor.
Stock softer springs conform to irregular surfaces better. They're also taller (counterintuitive) which maintains downward pressure on droop.
Geometry can never be returned to stock (without lengthening wheelbase), even with castor corrected radius arms, drilled swivel *****, or offset radius arms. They just push the problem elsewhere to make it more tolerable. DC driveshafts are more complicated, heavier, weaker, and expensive.
These trucks are engineered very well. The only change necessary to fit larger tires, up to a point, is fender cutting. After that, lift is required, but I'm not interested in that much compromise. For me, removing lift gains much and looses little.
Look at formula off-road rigs, big tires and low as possible with good armor.
Last edited by EricTyrrell; Jul 8, 2013 at 04:24 PM.
Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 350
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
I just removed my resonator after seeing some videos on YouTube. There is surprisingly barely a difference in sound. I'm thinking of putting on a flowmaster 40 that I have read other members using. Is there a specific part number I need?
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,450
Likes: 2
From: Upstate South Carolina
I have no problems with my current 2" lift other than all the standard disadvantages.
Stock softer springs conform to irregular surfaces better. They're also taller (counterintuitive) which maintains downward pressure on droop.
Geometry can never be returned to stock (without lengthening wheelbase), even with castor corrected radius arms, drilled swivel *****, or offset radius arms. They just push the problem elsewhere to make it more tolerable. DC driveshafts are more complicated, heavier, weaker, and expensive.
These trucks are engineered very well. The only change necessary to fit larger tires, up to a point, is fender cutting. After that, lift is required, but I'm not interested in that much compromise. For me, removing lift gains much and looses little.
Look at formula off-road rigs, big tires and low as possible with good armor.
Stock softer springs conform to irregular surfaces better. They're also taller (counterintuitive) which maintains downward pressure on droop.
Geometry can never be returned to stock (without lengthening wheelbase), even with castor corrected radius arms, drilled swivel *****, or offset radius arms. They just push the problem elsewhere to make it more tolerable. DC driveshafts are more complicated, heavier, weaker, and expensive.
These trucks are engineered very well. The only change necessary to fit larger tires, up to a point, is fender cutting. After that, lift is required, but I'm not interested in that much compromise. For me, removing lift gains much and looses little.
Look at formula off-road rigs, big tires and low as possible with good armor.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
I have no problems with my current 2" lift other than all the standard disadvantages.
Stock softer springs conform to irregular surfaces better. They're also taller (counterintuitive) which maintains downward pressure on droop.
Geometry can never be returned to stock (without lengthening wheelbase), even with castor corrected radius arms, drilled swivel *****, or offset radius arms. They just push the problem elsewhere to make it more tolerable. DC driveshafts are more complicated, heavier, weaker, and expensive.
These trucks are engineered very well. The only change necessary to fit larger tires, up to a point, is fender cutting. After that, lift is required, but I'm not interested in that much compromise. For me, removing lift gains much and looses little.
Look at formula off-road rigs, big tires and low as possible with good armor.
Stock softer springs conform to irregular surfaces better. They're also taller (counterintuitive) which maintains downward pressure on droop.
Geometry can never be returned to stock (without lengthening wheelbase), even with castor corrected radius arms, drilled swivel *****, or offset radius arms. They just push the problem elsewhere to make it more tolerable. DC driveshafts are more complicated, heavier, weaker, and expensive.
These trucks are engineered very well. The only change necessary to fit larger tires, up to a point, is fender cutting. After that, lift is required, but I'm not interested in that much compromise. For me, removing lift gains much and looses little.
Look at formula off-road rigs, big tires and low as possible with good armor.
You need to set up the truck to how you want it.
HD springs whether stock or lift will ride like crap on an unloaded truck. Likewise, light duty springs will ride like crap on a fully loaded truck.
A lift is installed for two reason.
1) Acommodate larger tires
2) Improve belly ground clearance
Check out ZukiJames on Pirate. He was all gangbusters to run 33" Baja muds on stock suspension. Then after running it he wanted a 1" spacer. I'm not sure where he's at now. Point is you can only cut so much. I'm running 315/75/16's KM2's on 3" RTE springs and some trimming. My tires don't rub the sheet metal at all. The rub the inside wheel arches, where the rear wheel arch connects to the flat floor pan near the fuel fill. Can't really go cutting that now can I?
As Ian mentioned the stock D1 has great articulation with 29" tires. Go to a larger tire and you'll start losing articulation because the axle can't travel up as far as it used to.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 18
From: Oregon
Got a brand new full truck Polybush kit for $50 from a guy that sold his D1 before using it. Why bother? Because this:
Unfortunately:
There should be an award for even getting that thing off.
Looks like I need a new damn radius arm. Buzz isn't the only one having fun.
Unfortunately:
There should be an award for even getting that thing off.
Looks like I need a new damn radius arm. Buzz isn't the only one having fun.
