Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

So what did you do to your Disco today?

Old Feb 18, 2014 | 02:26 PM
  #2431  
jamescphillips's Avatar
Three Wheeling
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Been a few weeks since I've posted, I've been dealing with a lot of fun stuff!

We replaced the valley pan gasket & thermostat...had coolant dumping out of the rear gasket. Oil is clear, I haven't overheated so I didn't do head gaskets....now my temp is holding a steady 183-188 and my heater finally works. Previously I couldn't get the engine above 130.

Tonight I'm replacing my drivers side window regulator bushings (found the exact nylon washers from Lowe's) ;looks like it's a relatively simple fix. Trying to plan for the upcoming spring/summer season here in CO. We plan on doing a lot of offroading & camping!

Next week we'll be mounting my cb antenna, ordering the Columbia overland rear-door panel.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 02:50 PM
  #2432  
fishEH's Avatar
Camel Trophy
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Originally Posted by calebbo
Bought three u joints at advance auto (part number 1-0005) and taking them to a shop tomorrow to be installed. ($75 total)


Update:

well got a call from the shop and they pulled both driveshafts and took off the ujoints. Said nothing was wrong with them and they were in great shape and even greased them for me. Paid $20 just because they took them off and put them back on. Next stop is rear rotors and calipers. My Rover is pulling right on braking. I just changed the front rotors and calipers and the steering components to HD TF rods so the next step is the rear brakes.
Hmmmm, personally if they had the shafts out and pulled the ujoints I would have had them replace them anyways just for peace of mind. Then keep the old ones they say are good in your trail spares box.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 03:07 PM
  #2433  
TOM R's Avatar
Baja
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From: south n.j. and ne va.
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I second the u joints

If brakes pull re bleed fronts, also was there a lot of rust on caliper brackets
Can cause pads to hang
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:23 PM
  #2434  
calebbo's Avatar
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From: Tupelo, Mississippi
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$75 to be used elsewhere. Now I have to tackle the cooling system. My heater and ac stopped working. It doesn't blow anymore at all. Also, there's a leak in my passenger foot well so I am assuming the heater core went. But the air stopped blowing before the heater core went out so I need to look in the rave to see where I should start.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:55 PM
  #2435  
CUpgt's Avatar
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From: Upstate South Carolina
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Cut all the plate for my new 12" adjustable shock towers. Should have it welded up tomorrow. I'll have lots of pics of a bunch of fab work I have been working on.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 07:47 AM
  #2436  
TOM R's Avatar
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From: south n.j. and ne va.
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Originally Posted by calebbo
$75 to be used elsewhere. Now I have to tackle the cooling system. My heater and ac stopped working. It doesn't blow anymore at all. Also, there's a leak in my passenger foot well so I am assuming the heater core went. But the air stopped blowing before the heater core went out so I need to look in the rave to see where I should start.
Don't be surprised if the wet foot well is from rottholes in the firewall behind the fenders check my thread for pics or the hvac intake needs resealing
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:33 AM
  #2437  
calebbo's Avatar
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It's coolant though.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:45 AM
  #2438  
TOM R's Avatar
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Oh OK you said a leak not that there was coolant on the floor.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 09:54 AM
  #2439  
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My apologies haha
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 06:48 PM
  #2440  
CUpgt's Avatar
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Finished the shock towers and got them welded up, and picked up my new longer trailing arms, and frame mounts. Now I just need to get my rear end back together and get started on my a-arm spacer. This never ends!
Shock Towers: about 2" taller than D2 towers and adjustable in 1" incriments.
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Trailing arm mounts and 1/4" base plate. I still need to drill some 1/2" holes to spot weld to the frame as well as perimeter welding.
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And as much as I would like to, I cannot claim these welds.
 
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