Penny anti stuff compared to what the big boys do, but I slipped an O ring over the back gate lock button so It would stop locking itself, found the tachometer lead loose on the block after reading in the archives that it is white and its connection is the spade on the back of the alternator, I ordered new plug wires to go with the new Champion copper plugs I picked up yesterday (be gone you 1313 and 1314 codes), and bought a K&N air filter on eBay for $18. It's too damn hot today to do much else, so compression testing will have to wait to later in the week.

My piddly stuff reminds me of sitting around a camp fire whan I worked for an outdoor drama and listening to a couple of guys trying to top each other's Harley stories that kept escalating (Well I jumped on my chopper hog and rode 2000 miles non stop in a blizzard) until one guy hesitated while trying to think of his next come back and a little guy who had been sitting quietly through all this said, "I rented a Honda 50 for an afternoon once", and we all fell over laughing.

 

Well it was yesterday but my power steering pulley **** the bed...

 

That from the Saginaw?

 

Changed both front ujoints. Got rid of a lot of the vibration it had.

Wrestled w the radio for an hour trying to get it out. Used 2 Allen keys. No joy.

Decided to wash and wax it instead. Came out pretty good.

 

hot dog that is clean.

 

This was a good disco day. I read the ABS codes by jumping pins 5 and 15 in the OBD II connector, erasing them as I went. The codes were 2-6, 2-8, 2-12, 2-14, 4-12, 4-14, 5-12, 5-14,6-12, and 6-14. 2-6 is faulty stoplight switch (which I replaced 2 days ago) and 2-8 is “No voltage to ABS solenoid valves – faulty valve relay or wiring”. The rest are left and right front sensors too much gap, bad wiring, high resistance, or no output. I'll check the sensors later.

I replaced the spark plugs with the new Champion RN11YC4 spark plugs which were gapped about .040 out of the box so I made sure all were set to .040”; (spec is .035” to .040”). I used high temp anti-seize and torqued them to 10 foot pounds. The old Autolite plugs came out easily and they all looked about the same – dark and slightly oily but not excessively so – and they all had pretty large gaps.

I jacked up the front end on two OEM jacks and discovered the play in the steering was at the steering arm because the big nut on the bottom was loose. I didn’t have a socket to fit it but was able to tighten it with a 1-5/16” open end wrench by levering the wrench against the axle and the tie rod. The washer, which was bent over on one flat, turned with the nut so it was not locking it. I pried the washer flat enough to get the wrench on to turn the nut and left it that way – probably need a new one that will lock the nut to the shaft, but will just keep watch on it for now.


Tomorrow? - charging the AC and then a drive to pick up my 1/4" drive 12 Pt sockets and to see what ABS codes and OBD II codes come back. Thanks to all on the forum and in the archives for the help. This Disco may be a daily driver yet.

 

Sold my dented hood with holes from hood pins in it for $80 today.
That'll help fund my new steering links and trailing arms.

 

Bought a tank of 91 octane 100% gasoline today. Don't need to do any testing to notice the difference! Cost $.30 more per gallon that the ethanol 91 but I'm sure that is going to balance itself once I calm back down to my economical driving style again.

 

picked this thing up today



has some cancer here and there, mostly driver's fender well under the rear door. otherwise some soft spots around about the size of a half dollar.. nothing that can't be fixed. frame is good. couldn't get it running (bad gas or dead fuel pump, not sure yet. cranked and ran w starting fluid) so we put it in 1st gear low and used the starter motor to limp it onto the trailer. my buddy is excited to get it all running, he's cleaning it all up now. tomorrow oil change and figure out why it isn't getting fuel. not bad for 500 bucks.

 

Hey I offered 500 first oh well