Passenger side hub and stub assembly has a broken drive flange bolt in it. Both sides are nicked up.

 

Meh, one of mine was like that when I bought the truck. The hole was filled with RTV. I the the bearings and put it all back together the same way... filled the hole with RTV.

 

Got two flat tires last week which destroyed sidewalls.
I learned that I am pretty good at plugging sidewalls to hold enough air to get me home. LOL
Replaced tires finally with a set of 235/85r16 all terrains with no lift installed currently. Tucked nicely in the fenders.


Picked up a TF 2" lift with pro series shocks locally.
And bolted up some Hella 500's on the roof rack.
Have to build a wiring harness for all of the lights.

 

I got new hub for $130, new stub hubs. The seals were on wrong. PO was an idiot.

 

Pretty sure the '98 has a rev-limiter. I've run mine on ice where I hit the rev-limiter spinning tires in the top of 4th. The ignition cuts out. With an electronically controlled engine, where you really have to watch out is over-revving on downshifts. It's easier to do with a manual transmission, but it's more likely with performance car driving where you might actually think that at 5000rpm, a downshift is needed. Probably not gonna happen in a Rover.

 

I'd assume the GEMS trucks have a rev limiter. My 95 does not, I've made the valves float a couple times.

 

my 98 has a rev limiter.

 

Removed the water pump, got to cold to put the new one on. Does the cover need to be 100% free of old gasket? There are a couple places near the bolts that are not coming clean. I plan on using rtv in addition to the gasket. Do I need to keep working on the gaaket?

The old pump had some play in it, I think I am on the right track to solve my whine.

Those hose clamps are ridiculous.

 

No whining about temp, I just did mine in exactly four hours outdoors - fan shroud to last burp - 20F with 15 mph cross wind and blowing snow and no gloves. Most of that time was spent peeling gasket off the cover. Use high-tack on gasket and silicone for long bolts through front cover. For peeling gasket I used a razor sharpened wood chisel - two hands and major control over not digging into aluminum. Stood on a milk crate the whole time since I have a brush guard.

Yes, you need to keep working on the gasket! Do you want to play with the hose clamps again?

 

Replaced the leaking oil cooler lines. A moderate pain in the ***, would have been completely tolerable except that I managed to cross thread the last of the four fittings, the one going up into the block next to the oil filter. Maybe it was already buggered, I don't know, it started easily by hand then got difficult. Now it leaks even though tightened hard. Will have to restore the threads somehow.