Rear door quarter window, the small one in the door frame.

 

I bought a TF Bumper for the front and Britpart bumper for the rear

 

Moved the sheet rock off of it... tore through it, trying to find my percussion caps for my revolver. Had a misfire, it's a bitch to clean with one loaded cylinder... lol

 

Got as super winch and swivel recovery for my TF bumper

 

Well fellas,
I've begun the head gasket job. The truck started spewing out sweet coolant exhaust, as I was 5 mins from work. Called the sawmill, told them I was going to be a bit late...yada yada yada..
I put in 7hrs Saturday tearing the engine compartment apart. I found a post online that has detailed instructions LandRover
Well, here I am today after work. 2 more hours in and I finally have the "valve covers" off. Admittedly, I dont know a head gasket from a muffler. But by week's end, Rover-Gods help me, I will have the head gaskets removed.
Wish me luck guys

 

Most important thing is getting to know who is going to surface the heads. Have a shop lined up yet? Make sure they've done a Rover head a time or two, no surface imperfections, mirror smooth or you'll be redoing the heads in a short time, usually within a year and then you'll be a pro. Do not use a metal scrapper to remove any foreign material from the top of the block once you remove (most of) your head gaskets, use a plastic scrapper, one you've given a knife edge to on a bench grinder. Use acetone, keytone or some type of strong paint solvent to remove excess gasket material from the deck, helps to soften/loosen left over material. Do not polish or use Scotchbrite pads, steelwool or any other abrasive, only a soft lint free rag or shop towel. Decks must be free of any imperfections, flat and shiny.

Now I'll wish you luck. Start a new thread if you have anymore questions, I've done it many times for cash, no return jobs yet......

 

Went to the junkyard in search of a drivers door latch since I busted ours a few weeks ago when the door was frozen shut. I was also on the hunt for the intermediary metal coolant line that runs behind the A/C, alternator, and tensioner bracket since mine is starting to drip Found out they had replaced the old LR D1 with a two different Rovers. The D1 they had didn't have a drivers door but it did have a couple extra parts I was looking for.

so I got:
Brand new AB ground cable
drivers rear door lock actuator
rubber lines to reconnect my washer tank to the sprayers
dipstick tube mount bolt
intermediary coolant line
hood latch pull cable
misc clamps/parts

all for a whopping $5. I was pretty excited when they saw me lift up the trash bag and said 'that doesn't look like it weights anything how about $5'.

One of the reasons I keep going back to that junkyard.

I'll also probably be posting a thread on repairing my windshield wipers shortly. When I got the D1 it had a toggle switch for hi wipers on/off and that was it. After reading on the forums it sounds like it could have just been the wiper switch being gummed up but most of the lines/wiring is gone or disconnected so it's going to be an adventure.

 

Installed a brand new 10 inch JL W1v3 with a 1400 watt off name competition amp I got a yard sale for $25. Placed it in a sealed box (added polyfill) and now I have some very nice bass tones. I removed the stock cd changer from under the passenger seat and placed the amp there. bolted down and using the existing cd changer access to adjust amp levels. Looks very clean and sound compliments my AppRadio very well.

 

Installed a good used radiator today. Looks like just in time, too!

 

I loathe the stock rover rads... That's why I switch to a GM. Always runs cool, no funky burping, and simplified.