Landy felt some more love today, installed a "new-to-me" third member in the rear. No more letting off the throttle to quiet the rear pinion when passing people on the sidewalk lol

 

Had a prolonged beer drinking/car repair session today. Replaced the passenger window regulator, new air filter, axle oil, 180f thermostat, radiator fluid and cut off the exhaust regulator and welded on a bit of bent pipe to replace it. Also ordered a new radiator! I bought the car from my dad for $500 after it had been sitting in his garage for 6 years so there is much to do to on it.

 

well over the last month:
repaired rust on fender wells and firewall - chassy saver on what ever was worth savin, seam sealed, primered, undercoated etc. (basically took both fenders off and all items off fender wells and redid all the seams.)
fitted used but same color fender to replace the fire hydrant scared one thats been on for years.
and the best for last.
fitted a 2" Iron man lift.... backwards, yes Im laughing my *** off - put the rear springs in the front and vs verse.

 

In celebration of Mexico's Independence Day....
- made the jumper and pulled codes for ABS fault codes (I'll start a separate thread if I figure out how to fix the ABS)
- change the fuel filter
- fixed a solder on the rear window ECU (rear windows didn't consistently work)

bad solder on the ECU (before)....



repaired solder (after)....

 

What were your codes?

 

2-12 and 2-14 both front sensor faults. I'm going to start with new bushings and oil seals as well as checking the continuity of the wiring to the ECU. That won't cost me much (sourcing bushings from the UK...I hope, 'cause I have no idea how a simple piece of copper can cost upwards of $20 in the U.S.).

 

You might try seating the sensors all the way. They should self adjust after you drive it. I've heard that air gap is one of the most common fault on the D1.

 

Yes, I've done that, and it does help for a short while. Which is why I'm going for bushings and oil seals with the hope that they will remain in the correct position on a more permanent basis.

 

Got my BritPart polyurethane bushing kit in the mail today. $135 shipped from the UK and arrived in 2 days.
https://www.lrdirect.com/DC7100-Poly...keep_https=yes
I got right to work and replaced radius arm axle and chassis bushings, rear shock bushings, and front and rear swaybar bushings. Definitely feels tighter on the road.
I'll do the front shocks and panhard tomorrow, and pull thw trailing arms. I've got an air over hydraulic shop press at work that will make short work of removing the old trailing arm bushings.
Also got a valley pan gasket set and fuel filter replacement to go on. New $7 RockAuto brake pads going on tomorrow along with stiffer brake hardware springs from Menards.
Trying to do some PM before doing a short trip to Michigan's UP ina couple weeks.

 

- New windshield (well, I didn't do it, but it is done)
- changed the check valve on the rear washer. It works now. Looks like someone (no idea who would have and I've owned the truck since new) put the check valve in backwards. mystery.
- 'fixed' rear wiper...just cleaned connections at the motor.
- connected map lights on the new rear view after windshield was installed and correct mount glued to new glass.


Only things left on the 'the list' are the ABS and a rear sunroof switch above the rear passengers.

Of course just as I checked a couple of things off the darn thing threw a code... P1193. Rear O2 open circuit. Cleared it and will see what comes of it.