Replaced all 4 window switches on the front seat console, Much better performance as I don't have to cycle the switches a few times to make them work.

Pulled the ABS fuse as it still needs some attention and I enjoy being able to stop more than the ABS light being off at times.
Next comes replacing drivers side front shock, and then attacking the pass side window (leaning towards a motor problem)

 

sweet!

 

Started building my roof rack basket out of 1 inch square tubing. Pics to come!

 

driving on the road today I ran into some heavy downpours, I found out my rear door wiper doesn't work.. More troubleshooting I guess. Maybe it is just a fuse??

 

Several days ago taking my wife out for a birthday brunch I started to open the driver's window and experienced the big bang and window stuck syndrom. No good deed goes unpunished - right? Thanks to the archives I learned the problem was a roller pin catching on that D__N unused keyhole in the window lift track. Got to wonder if the pin catching destroys the roller or if the roller breaking lets the pin catch. In any case the window ended up stuck about 1/4 inch down and wouldn't go up or down, so today I finished the nylon washer fix after pulling the regulator out and welding a little plate on the back of the track and JB Weld filling the front of the D__N keyhole.

In the process I learned several things. (1) The recommended Hillman #881539 nylon washers have a 13/32 (.406) ID while the pin OD is .312 so I asked my wife to also pick up some Hillman #884587 3/8 (.375) x 1” nylon washers to try, but It turned out the 3/8 x 1 washers are exactly the same as the others and both have .406 ID holes; one pack says 1 x 13/32 x 1/16 and the other says .406 x 1 x .062. It was hard enough to get the washers over the pin's head (even heated in boiling water) so a .375 ID washer might be impossible to get on. (2) Lower the window to disconnect the regulator if you can do so (in this case I could not) because it would be easier to remove the lift track from the window’s bottom frame in the almost lowered position through the bottom door holes and then raise the window by hand and tape it up to the door frame. (3) Do not use duck tape to hold the window up because it leaves nasty hard to remove residue on the window glass. Use painter’s masking tape instead.

At least I now have an up and down driver's window again.... and I didn't have any bolts or screws left over.

 

My AC was only blowing cool air, checked and it only had half the Freon it's supposed to. No sign of leaks so I topped off the charge. After a four hour drive she's still blowing cold with no signs of leakage.

 

Picked up a passenger side fender, hood, 2 window motors and both electric fans. All for $50! Good score.

 

Getting transmission to shift better by changing the Kickdown cable and Seafoaming the tranny. Fingers crossed

 

Fixed the passenger front window problem. Found 5.7v at the motor which points to the ECU under the dash. I found a dry solder joint on one of the 'link' connections on the board. Cleaned it up and re-soldered it. Window works like it should! Now I realize how much I missed not having that window open for airflow. Slowly I am getting all the little things fixed on this truck. still got to attack the rear wiper, and cruise control, then headliner and sun roof (aftermarket I believe)

 

Scored a radiator out of a 98 S10 Blazer for $30! Love the local dismantler.