That makes sense. I'm fine with the blink code method. Just takes a little more effort than a scanner. Thanks for the info!

 

Thanks!

After I cleared the codes using the blink method, the light went out as expected. I also replaced the brake light switch. One thing I noticed about clearing the blink codes is that it seemed necessary to disconnect the jumper during the second long set of blinks (e.g. 14) and then (important) turn off the ignition on the first long blink that starts the pattern.

Anyway, I have a feeling the sensors may work their way out over time so I will order new bushings/seals and add this to my summer maintenance list.

 

Went and picked up a new recliner, It actually fit in the back of my DI and I was able to close the rear door without taking it out of the box. I am impressed!

 

Probably should remove the box for third row seating..... and screw the headrest LCD's, go grab a 60". A fireplace and a popcorn maker and a cooler for the keg and your all set for the Super Bowl!

 

The "tool" would be TestBook T4 and the Westinghouse Air Brake Co. kit we have was never specifically designed for our D1's but for real Trucks. It's no joke either, that is if you know how to maintain it. I've put 100k on mine and yes it's needed attention but no more than the rest of the brake system. It will outlast the motor and trans, dead reliable. Now the cruise control system is a joke.......

 

My system is code-free, except when I hit a bump offroad and the sensors pop up. If I push them in and drive on the street, it stays code-free. However, the WABCO pump comes on a random times, like when I'm just approaching a stop sign and brake lightly on dry pavement. I'm even more concerned that offroad, the WABCO ABS will prevent me from applying the brakes descending a hill. If the wheels slide a little, it prevents further brake lock-up by forcing the vehicle to roll down the hill at high speed. Its absolutely scary. The only reason they put ABS on there in the first place was because of consumer demand. They made a poor choice, and that's why they binned it and asked Bosch to develop something to solve the horrible problems. They did, for the Freelander and DII, and invented hill descent control as well. HDC was a brilliant Land Rover first, but Jeep, Ford, and others have it now. The D1 just has a roller-coaster mode until you disable the ABS.

 

Waiting for the wife to get home.. Apparently a 4+ year old battery won't make it through a -17 degree night and still start my truck. It has climbed up to a balmy -2 degrees outside right now (2:30 in the afternoon) tried the fancy 'smart charger' and it just started smoking, so need a new charger too I guess.

 

I've used an Optima Red Top for way over it's normal service life (7 years now) and we see -30F+ degrees here on occasions. I've never once used a battery tender, charger on it and my truck sits outside all the time. When it craps I'm getting another. Just suggesting, you do what you have to.

 

I made a 65 series die hard platinum agm fit. That battery has treated me better than the optimas have. Took the disco to the store tonight just for kicks. Even at minus whatever cold temp with 15-40 it started....ran like crap for fifteen seconds...then smoothed out and purred like a kitten

 

I have two Platinums in my D1. They're only about 2 and 3 years old, but I have another one in a truck that is 6 years old. They're doing fine. Unfortunately, Sears and Enersys (maker of Odyssey and DH Platinum) seemed to have fallen out, so there's no more DieHard Platinums. I just bought an Odyssey for my wife's car, a rather expensive Group 49. Although I liked the Platinum prices better, I've found the Enersys batteries to be worth it even if I have to pay more.