So what did you do to your Disco today?
Those are still lit by the bulb inside the back of the cluster so the odometer/trip still has a yellowish light coming from behind it. I plan on trying an LED in the back and see what that does.
How hard is doing the bulbs, I have an electric tube light that I lay under the gauges, when I moved from Colorado to Washington I couldn't see my speed or anything, it's really bad.
Finally can check "fresh fluids" off my to do list. Changed the transmission fluid and t-case fluid today which means all fluids and the battery are completely fresh on my 97 disco. Patched the exhaust leak too so hopefully it won't be as loud in the cabin and I can hold a conversation, we'll see in 24 hours when the putty cures. Also took apart the interior to get it to shift to low range, then put it all back together. Good feeling knowing everything is finally running and working how it should. Quarantine has been a blessing for the disco.
The two top bulbs on a D1 cluster are a breeze. They're responsible for giving the gauge faces and the gauge needles extra illumination from above. Most of the D1's I've owned = those bulbs were all dead. Just remove the gauge bezel and you'll have access to them instantly. Super Bright LED's is where I got the Type 74 4K LED Bulbs. They cost $1.95 each & one tip when installing them into the bulb socket = DO NOT install them all the way down. The bulb can short itself out if you push it down into the bulb socket/holder to far.
The two top bulbs on a D1 cluster are a breeze. They're responsible for giving the gauge faces and the gauge needles extra illumination from above. Most of the D1's I've owned = those bulbs were all dead. Just remove the gauge bezel and you'll have access to them instantly. Super Bright LED's is where I got the Type 74 4K LED Bulbs. They cost $1.95 each & one tip when installing them into the bulb socket = DO NOT install them all the way down. The bulb can short itself out if you push it down into the bulb socket/holder to far.
The Type 74 4K bulbs I used are 4K white. They offer 6.5K, 4K, and 3.3K in Cool White/White/Warm, and then colors as well. I went with the middle 4K as it's the whitest output. The gauge cluster face is already printed in green so any light output from the back will still be green on the cluster side.
Bulbs Required:
2 Type 74 4K upper illumination
2 194 4.1K back illumination
4 Type 74 4K back illumination
That is what it should take to convert to LED's to illuminate a D1 gauge cluster. I have yet to fully do it as I'm more than happy with the added light from just the 2 upper illuminating bulbs. the Gauge Needles are much better. I think if you did all the bulbs above you should end up with a very crisp gauge cluster.
Bulbs Required:
2 Type 74 4K upper illumination
2 194 4.1K back illumination
4 Type 74 4K back illumination
That is what it should take to convert to LED's to illuminate a D1 gauge cluster. I have yet to fully do it as I'm more than happy with the added light from just the 2 upper illuminating bulbs. the Gauge Needles are much better. I think if you did all the bulbs above you should end up with a very crisp gauge cluster.
Last edited by Best4x4; Apr 24, 2020 at 05:57 PM.
I'm happy with just the top two being swapped out. I ordered more Type 74 bulbs just to have on hand, but the old 95 D1 is looking really good. I also finally got my AuxBeam Eagle 9003 LED headlight bulbs and that also made a drastic improvement.
Ebay?? Plug and Play?
SuperBright LED's Type 74 4K 1.95 each. You just remove the upper bulb socket, insert new bulb, and once you get the + & - correct you are good to go. Just do not push the bulb all the way down. Insert until the black line is just below the lip of the bulb socket/holder.


