My big job of the day was unplugged the hood switch for the alarm. I don't want the truck going bonkers on a dead battery, jump start, hit a bump while driving, etc. Too may people report hassles with this.

 

Plugs and wires for me too. Looks like a popular topic. Also, a final bleeding on my caliper rebuild. Those bubbly, melty looking wires are crazy!

Did a search this afternoon on firing order- so I could match the new wires to their locations. I need to check this, and it may not even be possible but my routing does not seem to be the same as what I got as results here on the forum. Going to plug into my router later and download the Rave.

 

Today, I read a lot about the fuel system, error codes, and the IACV. Then I went out to Discovery and proceeded to give the IACV a much needed cleaning.

It is a really small bolthead (2), I finally found that a 7/32 socket fits it. I eased that off, leaving the plug connected and being very careful not to do anything that might shift it or whatever. I sprayed it with CRC Throttle Body Spray. I laid an old sweatshirt there and did it right on top of the engine. I also sprayed a few blasts into the hole it mounts in, then carefully stuffed a little piece of the rag in there and continued to clean that cavity. Quite a bit of blck gunk came from the cavity.

I had cleaned the MAF again, then cleaned the Throttle Body but did not even know exactly what/where IACV was until reviewing the RAVE closely.

Anyway, I took it for a ride and it is running better than ever.

From my experiences, I feel that the MAF Cleaning, TB And IACV have been a lot more of a benefit than the Seafoam Treratment. My own opinion. I know there are some who really are sold on the Seafoam Induction, but I am less than impressed with it myself. Those other three I learned ferom experience are very important, I wish I had known and done all that much earlier. I would vote to add that to the 60K sticky or do another one concerning the fuel input system.

I believe now that if I had done all that earlier, when I had the P1178 issues, I was actually running rich because the inputs to the ECU were saying I had a lean condition and it was compensating by forcing it to a rich condition.

Looks like I will be doing new O2 sensors next and eventually be planning on new cats, since mine are beginning to make a slight rattling noise. At least that is what I think it is.

 

I recently redid my wires and plugs. One thing I noticed that you may not be aware of. On the coil packs, the spark plug number is impression stamped on the mounting frame for the coil packs. I made a little walk board by stacking blocks along side the car and putting a 2 by 10 down so I could clearly see everything under the hood. That was when I replaced the front O2 sensors. You have to move the coil packs out of the way to get to the O2 connectors.

On these engines Number 1 plug is the Driver's side front, with the drivers side being the odd numbers and the pass side being even numbers with 2 at the front. Knowing that and matching up the stamped numbers on the coil pack brackets should ensure the correct wire routing for you.

I hate not being able to reach and see what I am working on. If you buy 8mm wires do not force them into the smaller size wire combs that are on the Disco or you will pinch the insulation on your new wires!

 

Just hope the Alarm System does not wake up one day and miss the missing switch and go into Code Red!

 

Not much chance of that - the switches are not supervised, no current through them all the time, or end of line resistors, or form C contacts with multiple resistors. Just dumb dome light switches.

 

Thank you so much for that- I'll take those wires out of the looms in the morning!

 

i drove it to a mountain

 

you win!

 

Took my new 8mm wires out of the 7mm wire combs but did not drive to a mountain. Show off!