Tps problem
#11
#13
Rave/TPS
When you say three plugs, are you referring to the actual sensor? I understood it that all the testing was being done at another location, closer to the main ECU component. But I have not dug in.
I am going to try this weekend and see what I find.
#14
Found this on another site. Seems to explain a little more:
TPS
These sensors typically go out at around 110k to 150k or more. Just don't touch it or wash your engine or get it in mud ( so let your wife drive it).
Symptoms: Hesitation an high idle are common. If you floor the thing it might die down or sputter. Also stalling may occur. Miss-fires at cruising speeds have also been seen.
Diagnosis:
Old school method: Check your TPS using a volt meter set on ohms. Many videos on youtube for this test.
OBD II Code reader:
Go to View Live data and view the RPM's and the TP% (Throttle position percentage) You will see the TP jump and then the RPM's.
The data may be 5-7 at idle but it should be CONSTANT unless you push on the throttle.
The graph view should not change unless you press the throttle or your throttle is stuck. The graph is the best way to test this because you get a real-time view.
With the engine off but in position 2 ( lights on, View live data and press the throttle to the floor. Your reading should vary by only .05%. If it goes from 7.0-5.0 you have a problem. The WOT (Wide Open Throttle) should read 7.0 or higher on the scanner and it may fluctuate with your foot.
Try moving the throttle slowly to full and see if the meter drops. Mine would go from .6 at idle to 1.0 then to 2.0 then drop to 1.0 and go back up again.
A new Throttle Position sensor with lifetime warranty was $86.19 with CA tax. Part number TPS4126.
HARNESS CHECK:
You should also check the voltage on your harness to the TPS with a volt meter. It should be a constant also. If it varies, you have a wiring issue and it is not your TPS. Check grounds first on battery and lambda sensors.
To do this, ground on the battery and test all the pins on the harness. One should read 5-12 volts and it should be CONSTANT. this voltage should not jump at all with a good meter set to 20 volts.
TPS
These sensors typically go out at around 110k to 150k or more. Just don't touch it or wash your engine or get it in mud ( so let your wife drive it).
Symptoms: Hesitation an high idle are common. If you floor the thing it might die down or sputter. Also stalling may occur. Miss-fires at cruising speeds have also been seen.
Diagnosis:
Old school method: Check your TPS using a volt meter set on ohms. Many videos on youtube for this test.
OBD II Code reader:
Go to View Live data and view the RPM's and the TP% (Throttle position percentage) You will see the TP jump and then the RPM's.
The data may be 5-7 at idle but it should be CONSTANT unless you push on the throttle.
The graph view should not change unless you press the throttle or your throttle is stuck. The graph is the best way to test this because you get a real-time view.
With the engine off but in position 2 ( lights on, View live data and press the throttle to the floor. Your reading should vary by only .05%. If it goes from 7.0-5.0 you have a problem. The WOT (Wide Open Throttle) should read 7.0 or higher on the scanner and it may fluctuate with your foot.
Try moving the throttle slowly to full and see if the meter drops. Mine would go from .6 at idle to 1.0 then to 2.0 then drop to 1.0 and go back up again.
A new Throttle Position sensor with lifetime warranty was $86.19 with CA tax. Part number TPS4126.
HARNESS CHECK:
You should also check the voltage on your harness to the TPS with a volt meter. It should be a constant also. If it varies, you have a wiring issue and it is not your TPS. Check grounds first on battery and lambda sensors.
To do this, ground on the battery and test all the pins on the harness. One should read 5-12 volts and it should be CONSTANT. this voltage should not jump at all with a good meter set to 20 volts.
#18
ok I have .5 volts where the red wire for the tps leaves the computer(ecm) I have .5 at the tps plug, I traced the wire back from the tps plug to the bulk harness as it runs along the firewall by the washer bottle, between the washer bottle and the engine there is a split in this wire and at this point I have .5 volts so guess I need to remove washer bottle to see where that splice goes to, imo that is a hell of a voltage drop like it is running through a resistor
this is a factory splice that I do see reflected in the wiring diagram on the tps circuit no idea what it runs to
removed bottle, wire runs into a large bulk plug then looks like it runs through the firewall into the cabin, I dropped the kick panels but no idea where it goes
I am at a total loss for what else to do
I am open to any sane ideas, tried swapping with 2 other known good tps all give the same reading, tried my old ecm still same reading on ug
I do havbe power on the red wire at tps, good ground at the red with black tracer, moving the pedal the tps looks to be working fine the reading is just waay low
this is a factory splice that I do see reflected in the wiring diagram on the tps circuit no idea what it runs to
removed bottle, wire runs into a large bulk plug then looks like it runs through the firewall into the cabin, I dropped the kick panels but no idea where it goes
I am at a total loss for what else to do
I am open to any sane ideas, tried swapping with 2 other known good tps all give the same reading, tried my old ecm still same reading on ug
I do havbe power on the red wire at tps, good ground at the red with black tracer, moving the pedal the tps looks to be working fine the reading is just waay low
Last edited by TOM R; 01-02-2014 at 04:41 PM.
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