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OK Eric.....So the new Ignition coil solved the P1313 code once and for all??? I'm getting that now. Did you have any engine ticking noises?

 

No actually it came back. $350 coil pack did nothing. Oh well. Call it preventative maintenance

So then I made a 4.5 mm gauge for checking drive plate reluctor tab distances. They all checked out fine. The sensor and wiring look fine.

Next, I replaced all the injector O-rings. They were old and could have been causing the misfires. I haven't been able to test it though. I'm waiting on a new starter and have to bolt the rebuilt propshafts back in.

 

How hard is it to do the o rings? If I do my cables and plugs should I do o-rings too? what else in your opinion.

That P1313 code seems to be related to the cats. I think we need to look there, no? I think Mike said replace them. I looked at the magncor ones and there a little over $100 each. Need 2 I guess. I don't even want to deal with my O2 sensors but I guess Ill have to also.

 

Definitely do plugs and wires. I'd get the 8mm Kingsbourne. If you don't know the last time the O-rings were replaced I'd do them too. O-rings are cheap and it's just a time consuming job. Take plenum and inlet manifold off the intake, remove the injector rail, pull the injectors, remove the old O-rings, clean injectors thoroughly with carb cleaner or Chemtool, put new O-rings on, and reassemble.

I don't even remove the plenum heater hoses. I just lay the plenum to the side. I leave the fuel lines on the fuel rail too. Same with the plug wires and coil pack.

Misfires can be the CATs, but weren't in my case, or the codes would have gone away after removing them. However, one of my CATs was completely shattered on the inside, so I'm still glad I removed them.

O2 sensors aren't too bad. I got the NTK 25044 O2 sensors from RockAuto for $53.79 each. They come off with a standard 17mm wrench. You have to remove the coil pack to get to the front two connectors though, but that's only 4 small nuts.

 

The Kingbourne are pricey for me with the shipping and all. I think I'm gonna just do what Danny did and get the NGK 8mm and Champion plugs.

I think I need to get a friend to help me with all that. Actually I just got new hoses and clamps as I was having a little oil leaking out the top of the plenum.

 

Well, I must say, the NGK's are working fine on mine. I did get a repeat of that same code twice, but as soon as I ran two cans of Techtroline or whatever that stuff is thru mine, that code has not repeated again. I have been code free for several weeks now. That stuff was BOGO so I grabbed it up, it was still 13 buks for the two, but I added one in a tank full and a second can a couple of weeks later and it runs stronger than ever.

My tach gets lazier and lazier, so I will be ordering a Scan Guage shortly. No codes, but a bit rough when really cold and it seems to be a little rich, but better than ever was. I am interested in se3eing the exact numbers for everything on that Scan Guage.

I recently hit the recycling JackPot with some older PLC cabinets I got for free. So I got a little money for goodies now.

 

Thanks. Which Champion plug did you use again?

My ultragauge and research are making me think I have a CAT problem, but I'm going to do the plugs and wires before I go there.

If it's cats, cutting them out is tempting but I might go with the universals by magnaflow that was suggested.

I'm gonna do the o-rings too. (throw in so eric doesn't say i jacked his thread)

Then I think I'm going to move the ultragauge to the D2, buy a code scanner and get an oil pressure and cooling temp gauge set up for the D1.