Yippee! I'm Overheating
#21
#22
Dirty rads don't exchange heat. Busted bent tubes don't exchange heat, bent fins dOnt exchange heat.
If the outside looks that bad just think the inside looks half that bad.
Buy the 232 radiator and see what's next
Be sure to use a real 50/50 mix too. Water exchanges heat far better than pure antifreeze
If the outside looks that bad just think the inside looks half that bad.
Buy the 232 radiator and see what's next
Be sure to use a real 50/50 mix too. Water exchanges heat far better than pure antifreeze
#23
Hahaha, no worries. That is the coolers, I just left everything drain into one. My cooling system is mega clean, I promise. Rodded out twice now and plenty of drains, refills, drains, blown hoses, and bleeds lol.
Okay, good to hear those rather small broken fins sounds logical as to not cooling enough. I just wasn't sure if something that small was feasible to cause overheating, even slight overheating
Okay, good to hear those rather small broken fins sounds logical as to not cooling enough. I just wasn't sure if something that small was feasible to cause overheating, even slight overheating
#24
If you have digital temp gauge (scaner or ultra gauge), you could get warmed up to a steady temp, and then slip in a piece of cardboard to block off a portion of the rad, say 20%. See if temps jump up. If they do, it would indicate you are "on the edge" of the performance envelope. If they don't then rad is still capable of removing more heat per square inch. Don't block so much that you shoot up to 240F, etc.
#25
#26
#27
1-888-311-5183 Discount auto body parts, ebay seller
"Prozone Radiator -- PROZONE RADIATOR, NEW -- 27.75 in. x 16.25 in. x 2.12 in. core size; A high quality, OE replacement radiator"
#28
I tried again, this time "Dennis" (with a hard accent) said it is most likely out of stock. I'll try again in a few weeks or just buy used. Whichever comes first.
#29
I found that the same rad is used in some Range Rovers, I just had an adapter issue with the tranny cooler line. I was so proud of my partz vulturez skills, about $50 at salvage yard. Got it installed, cranked up, no leaks, even when it warmed up. Then I went back inside the truck and holy cow, the oil light never went out. Oil cooler side of used rad was 95% blocked. Got my original rodded out. So OK to do used, but check all three of the radiators that are built as one unit, and have it flushed and rodded out before install if time permits. Thought I also saw a post where someone was planning on using a rad from Summitt Racing warehouse, perhaps with aftermarket oil and tranny coolers.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 08-29-2012 at 05:20 AM.
#30
This is going to be a shot in the dark, as I haven't experienced any of the overheating problems myself,...yet. But here goes.
When I first got my Discovery, and started pointing Google towards Land Rovers, the first article that came up was one warning about overheating, and saying that aluminum engines have some peculiarities to be aware of.
Supposedly, the aluminum "flakes off" over time, and that's where the problems with the radiator come from. The solution, allegedly, is to flush the crap out of everything, and get all the older antifreeze out. Maybe flush and refill repeatedly with water, until you think that all the old antifreeze is removed, heater hoses and all. Then, instead of using green antifreeze, get ORGANIC antifreeze, as (again, "allegedly") it won't cause the flaking of the aluminum to continue.
As I said, I haven't experienced this problem..yet. From what I gather, organic antifreeze is available from several European car manufacturers, I know Mercedes recommends it and it is available from them, as well as (I think) BMW. It's pricey, but after everything honda50 has done, it may be something that helps.
I hope so.
When I first got my Discovery, and started pointing Google towards Land Rovers, the first article that came up was one warning about overheating, and saying that aluminum engines have some peculiarities to be aware of.
Supposedly, the aluminum "flakes off" over time, and that's where the problems with the radiator come from. The solution, allegedly, is to flush the crap out of everything, and get all the older antifreeze out. Maybe flush and refill repeatedly with water, until you think that all the old antifreeze is removed, heater hoses and all. Then, instead of using green antifreeze, get ORGANIC antifreeze, as (again, "allegedly") it won't cause the flaking of the aluminum to continue.
As I said, I haven't experienced this problem..yet. From what I gather, organic antifreeze is available from several European car manufacturers, I know Mercedes recommends it and it is available from them, as well as (I think) BMW. It's pricey, but after everything honda50 has done, it may be something that helps.
I hope so.