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2003 d2 fresh rebuild oil leak

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Old May 28, 2012 | 10:08 PM
  #11  
Keecho's Avatar
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No i checked it. Took the passenger side wheel apron off to get a better view, started truck up held a flashlight above tire and watched it pour out of bottom hole. Turned off truck, got a long socket with 3.5 feet of extentions, went through wheel well, banged plug in another 1/4 deeper. Smiled.. Then started truck up and watched it push plug back out to original location and started pouring out again.. Put tools away and left for work.

I think im going to drill it and stick a machine screw in there and use a slide hammer and rip that plug out. Then ill get the machine shop to make a slight bigger one and tap that in..
Sound like it might work? Well thats my plan for tommorow. If that fails im gonna take the pan off and run a 1 inch tap with pipe thread and pug a real plug in there with some teflon.
Well see.
 
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Old May 29, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #12  
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The plug is not an inch rather measure .8735. Can't imagin what would cause this plug to leak if it had not leaked before. I have a scrap front cover in my office if you need any details from it. Just PM me your number.
 
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Old May 29, 2012 | 10:25 PM
  #13  
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Needs this Permatex/2 oz. Bottle Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound (20539) | Indian Head Gasket Shellac | AutoZone.com_

to make a good seal. Works for freeze plugs also. Goop, drive them home.
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 09:29 AM
  #14  
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Winching
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Originally Posted by Keecho
No i checked it. Took the passenger side wheel apron off to get a better view, started truck up held a flashlight above tire and watched it pour out of bottom hole. Turned off truck, got a long socket with 3.5 feet of extentions, went through wheel well, banged plug in another 1/4 deeper. Smiled.. Then started truck up and watched it push plug back out to original location and started pouring out again.. Put tools away and left for work.

I think im going to drill it and stick a machine screw in there and use a slide hammer and rip that plug out. Then ill get the machine shop to make a slight bigger one and tap that in..
Sound like it might work? Well thats my plan for tommorow. If that fails im gonna take the pan off and run a 1 inch tap with pipe thread and pug a real plug in there with some teflon.
Well see.

You know I was looking at the front cover I have sitting next to me this morning and have a hard time believing the solid plug is leaking and not the plug above it with a "C" clip. This plug does have a o-ring around if you took it out and looked at. I would just make sure its not leaking from this plug down onto the solid plug. Sure would be easier to remove this plug and replace the oring rather than doing what you've proposed. Just a suggestion and may save you large amounts of time.
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #15  
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Problem fixed thank you guys.
But yes it was the plug leaking, my machinist said he took it out while cleaning the timing cover cause he wanted to make sure there were no cavities left behind for metal shavings to be hiding in from the old engine failure. But i guess when he put it back in it didnt seal right and i found it on first startup. Anyway long store short he machined a solid brass plug i think 20.2 mm with a groove to seat an oring in. So i just tapped that in with a 3/4 socket and started it up. No leaks yet, keeping fingers crossed.
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 04:19 PM
  #16  
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Keecho - search on web for galvanic related corrosion for aluminum and brass in contact with each other..... this may not be the best choice of materials.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #17  
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Thank you for the info but to late now buzz, i rather let it rot. That plug in that location is so hard to work on that i rather leave it there. Maybe when i do a water pump ill do the timing cover with it in a few years or when time comes. I banged that thing in flush and it was a little oversize so it would be a resl pain to take out. But i learned somthing today, who would have no the most non corrosive metals dont like eachother.
 
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