Just Googled them and you might want to keep your fingers crossed on receiving that short block. Sounds like a Bottorf story- If/when the time comes to replace my motor it will be based on success stories and credible sources.

I'll admit I was intrigued looking at the website. To find a business stateside that would do a turnkey motor change is half the battle. Needing a good warranty is also necessary from an established business especially with the cost of repairing or replacing a motor in a Land Rover.

Just an FYI

 

Zonk, thanks for them heads up. I feel like a dumba$$, but I honestly did not research the company like I probably should have. This is ridiculous as I do not believe I have ever spent 4K on a single item out of pocket, that was not financed.

Way back in the beginning stages of this, I spoke with PTSchran about lifters/cams. He referred me to Mark at D&D Fabrications for a performance cam. Mark was very helpful, and I purchased a cam from D&D. When I discovered pitting in my piston liners, I spoke with Mark again as what to do. After a pressure test showed my block to have a crack in it, I called Mark about getting one from him. He had 16 builds ahead of me and said it would be quite awhile before he could get to it. He had mentioned before the pressure test, that if the block came back with a problem or my local machine shop was unreasonable, he had two options for me. He could top hat a short block for me or if his lead time was too far, he had a company in Oklahoma he worked with, that usually had a shorter lead time. So, when the block came back cracked, he called Car Cannibal for me and had them call me.

With how well thought of PT is on the forums and being that he reffered me to Mark and Mark referred me to Cannibal, it did not even cross my mind to check into Cannibal more. My communications with Cannibal have went well and I had no reservation about buying from them. However, I know that everything seems great, until it is not.

Most of the negative info on Cannibal is from 2008-9, so hopefully they have corrected any issues. If my engine is not here on Friday, I might sweat a little, but will not panic. However, if I do not post pictures of it by Monday night, I will be on the phone with Bank of America about my options if this turns into a problem.

Thanks again for the info, and getting me to wake up and pull my head out of the sand.

Ross

 

just read this thread and before i got to page 2 i said man... i hope he got his engine... that place has got a really bad wrap. i would never buy anything form them. i would have totally went to Mark at D&D to get everything, or i would have put a 200tdi in it and not worry about a lot of electronics.

 

I did not want to be a negative person in anyway. I am doing research myself for a future problem on my 03'. I Googled it and was surprised to see the story... then again it's the internet.

Believe me I got lucky when we bought an 01' BMW M Coupe site unseen from the Northeast. I had my credit union do the financing and every thing was done. I did not get my car for at least a month after a countless calls. Finally it came. Come to find out the business went under, made the news and was fraudulently keeping other buyer's deposits and not delivering the products. This all happened months after I received our car. I found out others were not so lucky. My point is it can happen to anyone.

I've heard PT's reputation and D&D and quite frankly I probably would have done the same thing (not after my M Coupe experience). I hope you get your short block on Friday.

 

So hows this project turning out.... all good news I hope.

Ps. Anyone out there considering installing a used motor.... do not buy it from Engine and Transmission World. They are a criminal enterprise. Google "Engine and Transmission World reviews, complaints, scam" and you'll see they are crooks. Beware !!! They have many aliases: SW Engines, GotEngines.com, Midwest Auto Recycling, Mid City Auto Salvage, Got Transmissions.com and many others. If you see the phone number 888 344 8044 thats them and they're just waiting to rip you off.

 

I have been extremely busy trying to fit in as many hours as I can on the Disco while juggling family/business duties.

Engine was supposed to be here on Friday 1/27/12. Arrived a week later on Friday 2/3/12. Cannibal was a little slow to respond to emails/phone calls (I emailed them a week ago about shipping the core back to them and they responded that they would send me the bill of lading info... still waiting on that), however at the end of the day, the block arrived, looked to be very well done and I would recommend them to others. Other than the slow communications, the only other complaint I have is that I had to tap all of the threads that bolt the block to the bell housing/torque converter and the headbolt threads.

On the headbolts, the ARP studs are AWESOME! It is a no-brainer that I would highly recommend converting to them. I forget the product number but will get it to anyone who asks.

Now for the not so good news. Everything was installed and torqued down on Wednesday. Primed the engine.... and it would not turn over. No spark. Coils plugged in, inertia switch pushed, fuses good, rechecked all of the multiplugs. No spark. So yesterday, ordered/installed Crank Position Sensor. My friend tested the old one with an ohm meter before I installed the new one. Old one tested good, however due to how problematic I have read about them being, installed the new one. Still no spark. Heading over there in a few minutes to... do I am not sure what.

On Wednesday, and yesterday, once the battery was reconnected, the hazards flashed and would not go off. After a minute or 2 they went off. This happened both time. So, we thought maybe something to do with the alarm. I did not have the alarm remote, so just used the key in the door to unlock. I believe this shuts off the alarm as well. Either way, I am taking the remote key today, to see if that makes a difference.

I know there are many possibilities of what it could be. I am hoping that there is some procedure to do or something I am not aware needs to be reset after taking the engine apart and out. Any and all suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks,
Ross

 

Turn alarm on/off several times, like off 4 times in a row, I think you may have awakened it and it immobilized the truck. When it immobilizes, no starter crank , no fuel, etc. Great looking block. If Rover had left off the alarm, and used that money for top hats or pinned liners, we would all be better off.

 

Quick conversation with Disco Mike on Friday. He said that one of the first things he would check is to make sure the spacer washers for the Crank Position Sensor were on correctly. That he has known more than a few guys to put the spacers back on incorrectly. I immediately knew this was the root of my problem. Reason, I remembered taking the spacers off of the sensor when I took my old block apart. However, once I thought about it, I knew that I had not had to take them off and put them on when I replaced the sensor the day before. So, I searched around the work area. Even opened up the crate to check the old block. I was kicking myself thinking I had lost them. My friend suggested I check to see if I just put them on first, in front of the sensor. As this would prevent a perfectly good CP sensor from doing its job. Took the cap off and felt instant relief when I saw that the nut was on top of the sensor with 1/4 inch of threads showing. I knew the spacers were in front of the sensor and this was my problem Took off the sensor, pulled of the spacers and reinstalled correctly. Installed cap... And it fired right up! Runs/sound beautiful.

I had no idea exactly how the sensor worked, so I thought nothing of the shaft not reaching the flywheel. I hope this may help another rookie in the future.

Ross