I'm just slow. And the heat index was 108 yesterday. But since it is supposed to be HOTTER today I finished taking everything off the block last night except cam, crank and pistons, so it is all (block and heads) finally going to the shop today if I can carry it out to the truck. It was a big mistake to put the block on the stand with the flywheel and flexplate still on, and that took some time to figure out.

The shop has been forwarned that I am a newbie at this and are going to really look at everything for me.

EDIT: I called the shop and the crank and cam need to be out, as do pistons. More to do.

 

When you remove the con rods from the crank, do not use an impact on the 10mm 12 points. The rod can slips and bends the bolts.

A brass hammer and brass punch as well as some wood pieces help for knocking out items.

The flywheel will come off with the crank once you take off all the main bearings. Don't forget the 2 side bolts at the rear main bearing, they are hex heads that are countersunk.

 

Thanks Abran. I took the engine off the stand with a soft strap and the crane, thinking I could leave the cam and crank in. Now to put it back on the stand. I'll follow your advice.

 

No way to tell without inspecting them, but you might want to see what your cam manufacture suggest for valve spring preasures.

 

Well I want to do it right. Will the engine shop tell me what pressure was sustained when they test the heads?

 

rockers and springs..????? if you are talking about valve springs, crower recommends standard spring value with the use of the 229
if you are talking about the springs on the rocker shaft, that is a matter of condition.
you want no loose or missing or cupped pads on the arms. everything should move freely and shafts should not be scarred or dented. springs should still be spacing and washers in place.
I have taken them off and had them look near perfect and I have taken them off and the shafts were out of round from over torque of bolts.....springs were always fine

 

Right, I meant valve springs and now I am a little confused about rocker shaft springs.

I just looked and I see what a rocker shaft spring is. I never really paid attention to them. Lord.

As for the cups on the rockers I have never seen new ones, but I have seen three sets of old ones. How would I know whether they are worn? Not trying to seem dumb but they do cup the end of the push rods. How would I know whether they are worn?

 

there was a tsb a while back. issues with the pressed in cap on the tip becoming loose and falling out. look for any crazy deformation in those areas

 

found it... http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/RoverRockerArmNoiseTB
looks like 97-02

 

GOOD LORD YOU ARE A SCHOLAR!!! Thanks for finding that (in real time: about 15 seconds... shocking).

I haven't taken the rockers off because the engine shop feels sorry for me (because I am so much more ignorant about engines than the felons who go there several times a week) and because I am concerned about getting the valves out of order but I will go ahead and do that. As you note, that's for 02 and this engine is an 03 but I assume the rocker assemblies are the same. I do have two sets of rocker assemblies that are from 00's and they look BRAND NEW compared to these gunky ones, top to bottom. I did some googling after you first posted and I see the crazy deformations you mentioned. I laid out my push rods in order and oriented top to bottom, thinking I would be re using them, so I will check them for any deformation, pull the rockers, and look for anything out of round or rough on the cups.

If it is super important to keep the push rods in order and oriented then I don't understand why it wouldn't be super important to change the rocker arms as well, but I'm not bucking to spend another hundred on the project, unless I have to.