4.6/hp24 into 4.0/hp22
It would cost you more to instal liners now, about $800 for liners and maybe $800 for machine work. I did my truck when it was apart and now never worry about the dreaded slipped liner. It's a lot of time to pull an engine to do what could have been done to have the ultimate engine just to have a new set of fancy tires and suspention lift a little sooner. Also how does your machine shop know the liners are fine? Did they heat the block and test? At the very least, pin it, your are spending a lot of money.
Best of luck!!
Best of luck!!
Food for thought.
I guess one of the reasons I am not concerned about it is that it hasn't happened to me and I've gotten hypersensitive to engine temps (I use an electric fan and have an inline Chevy thermostat). Also, I have two spare engine and all of the stuff to swap engines. BUT this 4.6 is my new favorite so it is something to consider.
Last edited by Charlie_V; Jul 17, 2015 at 03:56 PM.
Need some advice here. I removed secondary air. I note that there are two different kinds of radiators here http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200.../radiator.html. Which to get?
Last edited by Charlie_V; Jul 19, 2015 at 12:26 AM.
Off topic but I had to share. On the way to Tyler today my week old thermostat stuck shut. It was 99 degrees. Had to drive over an hour with the heater on full blast Got to an auto parts store and swapped the inline Chevy thermostat without getting dirty. Awesome, right? No. Left the auto parts store and my throttle cable broke. Metal cable sawed right through at firewall inside the sleeve; I just learned there was a recall on that. There was no solution. Had to idle four miles home in 4 low (for hills) at maybe 2 miles per hour. Awesome day. AB will have a new cable here tomorrow. Shipping was more than the cable.
Figured out the radiator (above). The bottom line is the SAI radiator works for both; you either use the sensor or a plug. I vaguely remember dealing with that a few years ago when I replaced my original radiator. With my non SAI swap, i'll just get the non SAI radiator because without that extra hole it is about 70 dollars cheaper. I looked at Nissens and couldn't see a difference. I looked at custom because I have extra room and I like brass and copper, but I can't justify the cost.
Edit: radiator was 156 shipped.
Second edit: accelerator cable is trivially easy to replace. If yours hasn't been replaced do a quick Google search for TSB on accelerator cable and I think the dealer will replace it for you.
Figured out the radiator (above). The bottom line is the SAI radiator works for both; you either use the sensor or a plug. I vaguely remember dealing with that a few years ago when I replaced my original radiator. With my non SAI swap, i'll just get the non SAI radiator because without that extra hole it is about 70 dollars cheaper. I looked at Nissens and couldn't see a difference. I looked at custom because I have extra room and I like brass and copper, but I can't justify the cost.
Edit: radiator was 156 shipped.
Second edit: accelerator cable is trivially easy to replace. If yours hasn't been replaced do a quick Google search for TSB on accelerator cable and I think the dealer will replace it for you.
Last edited by Charlie_V; Jul 21, 2015 at 11:52 AM.
Quick update. I got a call from the engine shop. They are SLOW but highly recommended here.
The crank has to be turned, so that's another week for crank and bearings. Cylinders are good and will just be honed. New rings and all bearings will be fitted, along with my new cam...
I ordered the Crower cam TWO WEEKS AGO and it isn't here, so I am pissed at Crower right now--holding up the whole project.
The crank has to be turned, so that's another week for crank and bearings. Cylinders are good and will just be honed. New rings and all bearings will be fitted, along with my new cam...
I ordered the Crower cam TWO WEEKS AGO and it isn't here, so I am pissed at Crower right now--holding up the whole project.
Last edited by Charlie_V; Aug 1, 2015 at 07:20 AM.
Crower is shipping next Tuesday. So that will be a month from order to receipt, if it goes to plan. That's a dumb plan.
Good thing I'm not in a hurry...
So when the engine is ready I'll spend a day putting it all back together then pull my transfer case and transmission, put the new transmission and old transfer case in, then put the new engine in. Hopefully a weekend project.
Good thing I'm not in a hurry...
So when the engine is ready I'll spend a day putting it all back together then pull my transfer case and transmission, put the new transmission and old transfer case in, then put the new engine in. Hopefully a weekend project.
Last edited by Charlie_V; Aug 1, 2015 at 07:22 AM.
I'm a little concerned about my oil cooler. I learned elsewhere that Land Rover eliminated the cooler on 03/04 Discos, and that's why I saw a plug in the 4.6 block behind the filter where I was sure I had an oil line on my 4.0. I assume the plug will come right out but will the line fit? I don't want to eliminate my oil cooler. That just seems dumb.
Good to know. Thanks, Abran. I tend to like to put stuff together then drive it immediately so It would be a major disappointment if I had to order some exotic fitting.
With pleasure. I can't remember if the early D2 trams cooler is bigger than the engine oil cooler, but you probably should use whatever is biggest as your engine oil cooler. Or if you want to spend some money, find an 03/04 trans cooler as your oil cooler.
I've already swapped the 03 transmission cooler in. It is bigger. I'd say 30 percent bigger. Hooked right up. I kept the 03 lines in case the fittings on the hp24 are bigger than the hp22 fittings on the transmission side.


