So, while I'm waiting for my sliders to be powder coated, I installed my 2" spacer lift and new brake hoses all around. Now I cannot get the LF and RR to bleed. I suspect I have a bad master cylinder as I have been dealing with a low, soft pedal for a while now.

I "power-bled" the system by activating the ABS module, using a jumper wires and a switch. Still cannot get fluid at either wheel, or out of the top of the ABS module. As result I ordered a rebuild kit for my M/C as this one is only a year old. The secondary circuit on the M/C that feeds the two mentioned wheels has no pressure when performing the conventional bleeding. (pedal up-pedal down, crack the line, close the line, pedal up, yada, yada) So, I think that is where I need to start.

Along with the M/C rebuild, I'm wondering if I should go ahead and rebuild the ABS module as well. I have already performed the Option "B" mod.(not that that matters) Anyway, the problem is, I have been unable to find a kit for it.

Sometime ago, when I was dealing with the "tres-amigos", I remember seeing a step by step break down and over haul of the module. It might have been here or on another forum. I can't remember. But, If anyone has a link to a kit and or instructions for the overhaul, please post it.

thanks, eddie

 

Good luck. Let us know how the new mc works out
also worth checking the new hoses for any kinks etc

 

@Davis31052 Before you open up the ABS unit, which is unlikely to be the issue you need to a bit more diagnoses. If the modulator is toast the repair kit is brutal https://4wdindustries.com.au/product...=7022435926062 about 700.00 US.

I am also assuming all your dash lights work.

I would start by :

• Top up your brake fluid
• Disconnecting the feed lines to the modulator 1 at a time
• Put a jar to catch fluid and have someone press the brake pedal a couple of times, or do it yourself see if you get fluid in the jar.
• Empty the jar and top off the brake fluid between tests if you are solo

This will tell you if master cylinder is the issue, if it is skip the next steps

If the feedlines are good you need to test the shuttle valves, this is a 2 man job.

• Set up for a power bleed
• Remove one line,have your assistant press the brake if you have fluid good go on to the next step
• While the brake is on activate your switch you should still get fluid
• Continue for each of the 4 feed lines

If you two front lines fail then you have either an valve or modulator failure, BUT you should have a ABS code.

 

I used to rebuilt the MC's with the seal kit, but lately I can get an entirely new aftermarket MC for 65.00. Ebay prices rise & fall but on average I've paid between 55-75 for a completely new MC.

 

No codes since doing the Option "B" mod. Reservoir topped off and kept full during the entire process below. No leaks at any fitting throughout the system. Trouble shooting steps after hose replacement have been;

Bled at each wheel, two good bleeds LR &RF, two not good, LF & RR. This done using the ABS pump to push fluid thru the lines.
Bled at the four high pressure lines from the top of the ABS unit. Good pressure on LR and RF, no pressure on RR and LF. Again, using he ABS pump to pressurize and move fluid.
Bled lines from M/C to ABS Pump. Using manual foot method, two persons. Good pressure on front outlet of M/C (closest to radiator) going to ABS pump . Low to no pressure on rear outlet (closest to firewall) of M/C going to ABS pump.
I am going to rebuild the M/C just for the fact that I have low to no pressure on the one M/C outlet.

On to the ABS pump; I used a hand held vacuum bleeder to try and pull fluid thru the ABS pump on the two circuits in question, thinking the ABS unit was just full of air. Using a small suction cup in my vacuum bleeder pump kit, I was able to get a good pull of fluid with no air on the RR outlet of the pump. However, I still have no pressure when manually activating the ABS pump, and no fluid to the RR wheel. I couldn't pull a good vacuum on the LF wheel outlet as there is a plate next to the outlet with two Allen screws.

Being that I was able to pull fluid through the ABS pump by vacuum method on the ABS pump RR outlet and still not have any pressure, makes me wonder if the ABS pump is not making pressure on those two ports only. Which seems odd that only half the pump would go out.

I will report results after I rebuild the M/C and re-bleed the system next week.

Thanks to all who have offered advice/guidance

 

So here is the follow up;
I picked up a Brit Part M/C rebuild kit from Amazon. It came in two days and was nowhere near what I needed. Of the 5 parts included, only two even looked like that were actually for this type M/C.

I contacted the seller and they replied that additional parts needed were not available. That said, Be advised that is not complete. They only reseal half of the primary circuit. Nothing for the secondary.

Accepting defeat, I picked up a new M?C at Auto Zone, did a manual 2 -person bleed and now have good brakes again.