Really? Rover cams are "soft"?
No you cannot use new lifters on a old cam, everything needs to go back in its exact same place because they have all worn at different rates and putting the wrong lifter might cause problems, but as for Rover cams being soft?
Where did you get your info? Why are there so many Rover engines with well over 200,000 miles still running strong on the original cam and lifters?
Please enlighten us with sources so we can read this for ourselves.

To put it another way, pics or it didnt happen.

 

I don't mean to just into the middle of what appears to be a personal feud here.
I didn't know about the rule that if there are no photos it didn't happen. I don't have any photos of Dinosaurs running around, but I'm pretty sure it happened.
But one of the very first things that came up when I meet with Paul Grant was him warning me about RR have a particularly soft cam, I believe right around the #7 cam lobe.
I also got a pm (which I didn't save because I didn't know with out pix it doesn't count) from someone with an 03 that just had the cam come threw the back of his block.
Now i'm only guessing but reasonably sure the whole cam shaft didn't come thru, maybe have broken around the # 7 lobe?

 

I replaced the cam in my old RRC with a Crower 229, and measured the lobes on the old cam for ****s and giggles.

The tallest lobe measured 32.24mm from radius to radius. The shortest lobe measured 30.15mm from radius to radius.

Rover cams are as soft as a stick of warm butter.

 

So while I am in there I need to also replace my cam? From where and with what? Going back through my old scratchy memory. You can replace the lifters without replacing the cam but you can not replace the cam without replacing the lifters??? or do I have that backwards? Do the lifters wear to match the cam? I know if you pull a motor apart, you must be careful to put the lifters back in the right holes. I am suspecting the mechanic that did the head gaskets did not put them back correctly and either I have a flatten loab or I have a plugged up lifter. I have talked to Mike and explained that I only have the ticking at idle. Once I reach 1000rpm it goes away.

 

Years ago, when I rebuilt my 1991 Range Rover Classic, 3.9 L engine, I installing all new parts, rod/main inserts, rings, cam inserts (by machine shop), camshaft and all related parts, I did use Buick valve lifters, and they worked just fine for over 100,000 miles before trading vehicle off on a newer rig. I think the Buick lifters are same size as the last 4.6 L. Rover engines.

 

There, now thats something I can chew on.
Thank you.

 

you need to replace the camshaft and lifter together as the ware into each other.
replacing one will get eat up the other causing you move problems down the road

 

I have read about GM guys using fine sand paper and figure 8 motion to clean up older lifters. The desire is for the lifter to rotate slightly as is moved by the cam. But my point is that real Rover lifters and generic Buick lifters are the same price, and may be the same part, some on line sources get much more than they should for them. One place charged $40 a lifter.

 

YES BUZZ I AGREE! That was my whole point in this thread not to half @$$ my project, but if I can buy a part with a buick logo rather than a rover logo I'd rather. Buick logos cost a lot less! alos being able to run up the block and get parts rather than having them shipped from unbekastania, I'd rather! But ultimately I want whats right for my truck!

 

lol

I bought a set of 16 from Crower when I bought the 229 cam I put in my old RRC. The entire set was $80.