Good to know - and thanks!

 

Had not thought of resetting adaptive values, that might have some effect.

 

Good to know - how do I do this? Nanocom, right?

 

Hey all, still not clear on what to look for if I unplug the MAF.

 

I think it goes like this. Unplugging the MAF will force the ECM to use programmed airflow values based on throttle position, RPM, intake air temperature maybe. Engine should run normally, verified by monitoring O2 trends. Funky codes might disappear.

 

Yes, correct. Also, disconnecting the MAF sends the ecu in to a limp mode where it runs strictly off the O2's, CPS, and TPS. I have had this test cure a few temporarily and verify the MAF is bad.

 

Still at it…

Tried octane boost. I thought it did the trick, but all the misfires eventually came back.

Disconnected the MAF, idle was rougher, but otherwise ran well. Threw codes for the MAF. Still got the misfires.

I should receive the loaner ECU tomorrow and plan to install on Saturday. I haven’t done this before but I imagine the 12V gets disconnected, let it sit for a few minutes, and swap them out. Hope it helps.

Thinking CrankPS as a hile Mary if all else fails.

 

I forgot if you’ve considered the Cam Position Sensor? They so rarely fail that we never talk about them, but what if?

 

You have to swap the BCU along with the ECU and after you reconnect the battery turn the ignition switch on for 20 minutes and let it sit there to resync the IDM. If you move the truck no Domino's will start flashing unless you have a new instrument cluster, correction matching instrument cluster to go with the ECU and BCU

 

Oddly enough, when I first got her running, I was getting a consistent Camshaft Position Sensor code - P0340. The CPS I had in there was genuine LR - 2 years old.

I had a billet cam set installed during the build. I had seen a post on this forum where someone had a build with the wrong type of cam gear and was getting the same P0340 code. I asked the builder if that could be the issue, the response was no. I spliced in a new plug - no change. I got another genuine CPS and the code went away.

Here’s the “oddly” part… I got another CamPS code a week ago. Cleared it and has not been back. Made me think that maybe there is an issue with the ECU.

Hoping this does the trick.