How difficult is removing the crank pully bolt and torquing back?

Is a cheater bar and a scaffold tube required to remove, or big nerr nerr gun?

Retorquing to 200lb? How many people just gun it back on?

Trying to gauge if it’s worth taking to my local guy.

I’m an idiot, because I just did water pump, pulleys etc.

 

Got any small rope? Like recoil rope #4 or#5?

Pull a spark plug and put the cylinder bottom dead center. Push in enough to where it stops going in. Obviously don't push the entire rope in, you need to remove it.

If the cylinder doesn't lock when it goes to tdc back off and add more.


Now you can remove and torque with ease. 200 ft lbs isn't much. I also add a dab of blue loctite.

 

Easier than that. Put a 1/2 drive extension through the flexplate access hole to loosen. You can gun it back on if you want but not needed. Engine rotation tightens it naturally, so you the flexplate trick works for tightening too.

 

Easier unless you don't like laying on the ground! Some of us don't have a lift lol.

 

Fantastic. I’ll get this done.

cheers folks.

 

So I screwed that up. Not the crank bolt, that was easy with locking the flex plate.

I ordered the wrong pulley damper from Rimmer in the UK.

Saw that it fitted ‘04 and ordered without checking the part number. It fits 98-04 deisels. Doh.

Rimmer shipping to US was lighting fast, however I’m stung for the return shipping.

Now I see why people look for used ones, as new they are $700+.

So, I got a good look at mine, as I took it off.

Does this look like it could cause a weird harmonic vibration at the front of the car? (Hubs/bearings were done recently.) I believe that rubber is really breaking down and becoming detached from the pulley itself.

Found a used one that is in far better condition than mine. Will swap that on and see if my vibration goes away.