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Crankshaft Pulley Bolt 15/16 or metric? Removal and refit methods?

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Old Feb 25, 2022 | 11:21 AM
  #11  
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Most of the engine hardware is SAE, as it’s a 1960’s Buick engine.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2022 | 02:07 PM
  #12  
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Thanks everyone - I’m trying to weigh the options.

If I use an impact wrench, will I need a special harmonic balancer impact socket rather than a regular impact socket? That would cost $100 instead of about $17, if the wrench fits between the radiator and the bolt - at least for a 15/16 socket. The 24mm is less, but is that risking damage to the bolt by using the wrong size?

I’m just thinking that using the wood block method with a breaker bar (I have a 3’ x 3/4-drive bar) will still be very difficult to remove this bolt, but maybe it’s not so bad? The socket would cost $13. I can start spraying it with penetrating oil now.

Also, how would I know if the three studs on the bottom of the front cover were replaced with bolts, so I could remove the front cover without dropping the oil pan? I’ll still have to remove the crankshaft pulley, but this could make the rest easier.

Since the front cover is cracked, I’m afraid to tap the starter to loosen the pulley bolt.

Thanks again
 

Last edited by neuropathy; Feb 26, 2022 at 02:24 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2022 | 02:50 PM
  #13  
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I did mine with a large 1/2" rachet (like a 2ft snapon with articulating head) and a large strap wrench. I got in there with a 24mm socket and it wasn't a problem for me. For install, I just did the reverse and then torqued to spec while counterholding with the strap wrench. Only caveat to my method is I do my work on a lift where I'm standing which may change how you'd approach the problem. If you pop the fan off, you can get a right angle impact in there as well if you're so inclined.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2022 | 04:08 PM
  #14  
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Hi, well its only 200 lbs at 1ft or 100ft at 2 foot snap on bar thats not a lot so I think your over thinking this, but if you need a bit of extra help, watch this video it will give you a bit more confidence

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_h0TpEZJ-68&t=93s

just make sure the strap is round the correct way to hold it tight when you go to loosen it so it needs to wind round anti clockwise

 

Last edited by frostythor; Feb 26, 2022 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2022 | 08:08 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by frostythor
Sandman 614, I like your home made tool, do you by any chance have a drawing of it with measurement, you can post
Will do when I get out of the woods
 
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 05:38 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by frostythor
Sandman 614, I like your home made tool, do you by any chance have a drawing of it with measurement, you can post
Hopefully this is enough detail for ya, all measurements are in MM. I actually 3d printed this and used it as a sketch guide to cut from, I guess printing the drawing to scale on paper would work to I own a Tacoma that I have to do the front crank seal on as well.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 05:52 PM
  #17  
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Air impact wrench and 24mm socket (impact) always worked for me. This one fits in between, no need to remove the radiator:

 
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 05:58 PM
  #18  
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Hi thanks that's a great help
 
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 06:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Discorama
Air impact wrench and 24mm socket (impact) always worked for me. This one fits in between, no need to remove the radiator:
Just a note: I got the Harbor Freight EQ12SXT and it was gutless on my air supply (may or may not be the only problem with it..) maybe get the Harbor freight EQ12RA, or any other smaller 1/2 impact. I ordered the Dewalt atomic stubby 20vmax impact to use on my Tacoma
 

Last edited by Sandman614; Feb 27, 2022 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 11:20 PM
  #20  
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As for studs vs bolts you should be able to see if they are nuts on a stud, or bolt heads only. At any rate, it shouldn’t be that difficult to remove a stud.
 
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