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Disco II fan exploded -- need some help

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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 02:26 PM
  #51  
acamato's Avatar
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From: St. James, NY
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Originally Posted by potxoli
How did you take the radiator out? RAVE has an incredibly complicated method of removing the front grill, horns and all sorts of other stuff, while a google search shows a bunch of threads that talk about getting to screws from the side if you remove the airbox and battery and that it takes 30 minutes that way.

Unfortunately there are no pictures of the second method, so I'm wondering what you did.

Thanks!
You need to remove the grill, horns & air deflectors. This will give you access to the bolts and the brackets you need to remove to remove the radiator. I did not remove the airbox or battery tray.I also did not disconnect the olr or trans cooler. There is one screw holding each of them onto the radiator. Remove the screw and slide it out of the slow on the other end.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 02:31 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by potxoli
How did you take the radiator out? RAVE has an incredibly complicated method of removing the front grill, horns and all sorts of other stuff, while a google search shows a bunch of threads that talk about getting to screws from the side if you remove the airbox and battery and that it takes 30 minutes that way.

Unfortunately there are no pictures of the second method, so I'm wondering what you did.

Thanks!
I take off the grill, move the horns, pull down the foam and then remove the bracket screws. You may want to draw a diagram or take pictures of the brackets and how they go back. First time I did that, I had fun figuring out exactly how the brackets all fit back together.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2014 | 01:01 AM
  #53  
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
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FWIW, the engine will run fine without the MAF installed, provided the other sensors are working properly. I had inadvertently run mine without the MAF for several thousand miles after doing my valve cover gaskets. I had attributed the constant SES light to my not having reinstalled the SAI components, but after reading my codes some months later I realized I hadn't set the MAF connector on tight enough as I was getting a no/low input code for the MAF and air intake temp sensor (integral to the MAF).

Truck ran fine without it with no noticeable loss to fuel economy or driveability. The computer simply needs a way to figure out manifold pressure, much like an ECU that calculates mixtures via speed/density (most modern Chrysler vehicles and older EFI systems) where there's only a MAP sensor and no MAF.

I don't know if the Rover engine has a separate MAP sensor, but I noticed the ECU was still able to calculate manifold pressure accurately (verified through the Android Torque app) despite the MAF not being connected.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2014 | 06:57 AM
  #54  
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update: engine started fine and made no strange noises, so she getting fixed. I'll post an update once all the work is done. Thanks everyone for all the help!

Also, I took off the belt, and tested the waterpump. No play whatsoever and spins freely. So I don't think anything wrong with the waterpump caused this.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2014 | 07:03 AM
  #55  
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good luck
 
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Old Aug 10, 2014 | 10:21 AM
  #56  
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Mudding
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In case this can help anyone, I managed to remove my fan using vise grips, a crescent wrench and a mallet using this method:

Land Rover Discovery Fan Clutch Removal | Another Tech Blog

no need to get the special tools.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2014 | 10:44 AM
  #57  
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From: Roanoke, VA
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Originally Posted by potxoli
In case this can help anyone, I managed to remove my fan using vise grips, a crescent wrench and a mallet using this method:

Land Rover Discovery Fan Clutch Removal | Another Tech Blog

no need to get the special tools.
While this is one method, using the correct tools turns this into a 15 second operation.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2014 | 01:53 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by DustyLBottoms
While this is one method, using the correct tools turns this into a 15 second operation.
Totally agree. It also would have been harder to do if my fan had not been shattered since there is a lot less room to play with to get the vise grips in. But given that I had all the tools above and did not have the special tool, this was faster since I could do it immediately instead of going to a store
 
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Old Aug 10, 2014 | 02:09 PM
  #59  
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Mudding
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(putting on my asbestos suit for this one)

So I've been pretty annoyed to have to get a new radiator just because a stupid plastic nipple broke off. Everything else about the radiator is fine and as I mentioned it is a Nissen and looks very new in terms of overall grime compared to the rest of the truck.

I found this thread:

Could this be a possible radiator nipple repair? - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

and decided to do the same as what the guy did at the very bottom. Disco Mike (what happened to him BTW? He does not seem to post anymore) says brittle plastic will bite you in the butt, but in my case the plastic is newish and as I was drilling, it was not brittle at all. See final product below.

I figure worse that can happen is the fix does not work and I need to order a radiator anyways. But if it does work, it is only cost me $3 at home depot and a bunch of epoxy I had lying around. This saves me money, but also time, as radiator removal/install seemed to be the biggest part of the job.

As of right now I have shroud, hoses, thermostat, fan and viscous clutch on order. Still need to order an air box top and an intake tube since both of those are damaged beyond repair. I'm pretty sure my BOSCH MAF is still good since I just got it and I managed to fix/solder the connectors.

Once my parts arrive, it should not be a long job at all to put the fan and the hoses back. Then comes the part of figuring out how to fill the thing with coolant again.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2014 | 04:37 PM
  #60  
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If you still need parts, Everetts junkyard in brockton usually has a few very complete discos there and prices are very reasonable and u can remove the parts yourself.
 
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