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I had already ordered the part when I took a close look at the mechanism but it looked to me like if you have a Phillips screw driver that fits in the door handle and has a big enough end to turn the mechanism, it would be easy to cut it to length and drill a hole for the retaining pin. The replacement part is that same cast metal and I'm sure a screwdriver would be more durable.
When your turn the screwdriver it also disables the alarm. So it also occurred to me that our trucks aren't as secure as advsertised since you can just punch the lock and open/disarm with a screwdriver.
...truth be told, the cheapest I've seen the rod had been $40, and I haven't been able to find it anywhere else.
I "super glued" again just the tip so I can study the rod completely, why would they choose cast metal for it? ...eventhough it lasted 15 yrs, reminded me of die-cast cars.
Anyways, bought a couple of 4" lobg 1/4 Bolts which should work just fine, I just gotta have patience filing them to shape and then drill the whole; but you have being mentioning the screwdriver and it just hit me now that I re-read your message, heck I've been using one big screw driver to do just that, lock and unlock the car! I might as well file that to size. Diameter is way bigger than the hole in the mechanism, so I gotta file no matter what! ...way to spend the 4th! ...and I'll second that, with the handle out and seeing how the mechanism works, secure access in these trucks go down the rabbit hole!
...after having super-glued the tip, I applied a coat of JB-Weld, but I guess I didn't let it cure long enough. I had to file it down a bit so it could fit in the hole of the mechanism, that must have made it lose strength, since it broke off when inserting the pin.
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...first step to fabricate the piece with a 1/4" x 4" Zinc-Plated Carriage Bolt, started filing the head into a "Phillips" head.
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..."Phillips" head pretty shaped up and constantly checking in the mechanism for a good fit.
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...side by side comparison.
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...a look at the tip that usually breaks, hopefully this 1.0 version will last.
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...Lock Rod 1.0 in place and ready to go in place.
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The whole mechanism gave me a little bit of work to get it in place.
The rod itself worked flawlessly during trials; without attaching it to the mechanism the system armed & disarmed with no prob. But once "Lock Rod 1.0" was attached and handle put in place, it wasn't easy to engage it in place; when finally able to and all secured, the mechanism worked, but not as smoothly as it should. It does turn left and right, but with a bit of trouble, but still arms and disarms, so "it works".
I gotta figure out why it is not working smoothly, but the bolt is definitely the right size when compared to the original rod, in length and in diameter; it does not seem to be hitting anything else, so I'm pretty sure it might be at the point where the pin secures it to the handle, since the issue is when turning the key.
But now that I know how to fabricate it, I'll start filing the extra bolt I bought into a new "Lock Rod", and hopefully this new version will make the system run smoother, I'll put more heart and time into it, now that I don't have the pressure to finish it quickly, since system is arming and disarming just in time for a work day tomorrow.
Besides time, sweat and gas going to Home Depot and back, I spent under 10 bucks for 2 bolts and a 3-File Set by Husky... you live, you learn. ;-]#
Last edited by adolfojbonilla; 07-04-2016 at 03:09 PM.
...after having super-glued the tip, I applied a coat of JB-Weld, but I guess I didn't let it cure long enough. I had to file it down a bit so it could fit in the hole of the mechanism, that must have made it lose strength, since it broke off when inserting the pin.
---
...first step to fabricate the piece with a 1/4" x 4" Zinc-Plated Carriage Bolt, started filing the head into a "Phillips" head.
---
..."Phillips" head pretty shaped up and constantly checking in the mechanism for a good fit.
---
...side by side comparison.
---
...a look at the tip that usually breaks, hopefully this 1.0 version will last.
---
...Lock Rod 1.0 in place and ready to go in place.
---
The whole mechanism gave me a little bit of work to get it in place.
The rod itself worked flawlessly during trials; without attaching it to the mechanism the system armed & disarmed with no prob. But once "Lock Rod 1.0" was attached and handle put in place, it wasn't easy to engage it in place; when finally able to and all secured, the mechanism worked, but not as smoothly as it should. It does turn left and right, but with a bit of trouble, but still arms and disarms, so "it works".
I gotta figure out why it is not working smoothly, but the bolt is definitely the right size when compared to the original rod, in length and in diameter; it does not seem to be hitting anything else, so I'm pretty sure it might be at the point where the pin secures it to the handle, since the issue is when turning the key.
But now that I know how to fabricate it, I'll start filing the extra bolt I bought into a new "Lock Rod", and hopefully this new version will make the system run smoother, I'll put more heart and time into it, now that I don't have the pressure to finish it quickly, since system is arming and disarming just in time for a work day tomorrow.
Besides time, sweat and gas going to Home Depot and back, I spent under 10 bucks for 2 bolts and a 3-File Set by Husky... you live, you learn. ;-]#
Falconworks and Carrs4x4 offer CNC-machined stainless steel rods. I've got the Carrs unit in mine (and it's the much cheaper option of the two). Far more durable than the OEM rod.
Here is a photo of what I fabricated from a 20d (20 penny) nail for the door lock of my Discovery, 16 years ago next month.
I expect specifications for nails in Poland are different from the U.S., but you can see the diameter and length of the of the nail closely matches the dimensions of the original rod.
The original rod broke at its weakest point, of course, where the hole was cut through it. I used a hand file to cut the nail head into a cross shape similar to the original rod, and drilled a hole at the correct location at the other end of the nail. I filed the nail flat there to make it easier to start the drill.
The nail shown in the pic is a prototype. I recall I had to cut off its point to shorten it to a length that would work.
Still going strong after 16 years.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
07-04-2016, 06:42 AM
