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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #101  
Alan Phillips's Avatar
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Cool, I ordered the MANN w950/4 off Amazon.

I might just go with Shell Rotella, a $1 here and there isn't the end of the world. My old Benz liked it just as much as the Chevron Delo. Since you guys had such good luck with it in the Disco, why not?
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 05:25 PM
  #102  
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This one is about 190K miles with Rotella....
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 01:07 PM
  #103  
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Default Changing filters concern

I'm all for going to the Rotella oil, but swapping filters for one that artificially raises the oil pressure is a big concern.
If you restrict the oil flow through the filter and raise the oil pressure across the pressure switch, you are restricting oil volume flow by doing so. This is NOT a good idea. There is much hype in the performance world about 'high pressure oil pumps'. BAD idea. you want normal pressure and high VOLUME. Low oil volume flow kills engines just as badly as low pressure.
The land rover oil pump is designed to pump so much oil volume at so much pressure. If you restrict oil volume flow with a different filter, all you're doing is restricting volume flow too. It might turn your oil light off, but you're killing your engine slowly by starving it of oil.
If you use the big Mann filter, see how long it takes for that oil light to go off when you fire the engine. It takes so long because the pump is taking longer to get oil through the system, as it's restricted. You are slowing killing your engine. NOT recommended, unless you want to give your mechanic more work to fix it. Fix the engine problem, not make it worse with band aide solutions.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:42 PM
  #104  
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Sorry, but not everyone will agree with you. My Mann filter does not exhibit a longer time to turn off the oil light. The oil filter does not have to "fill" with oil on a Disco, it hangs down inverted, and is already full each morning. I did not see a big bump in PSI, but was pleased with 44 PSI at 180,000+ miles. Excess pressure will be dealt with by the built in relief and bypass valve in the engine front cover.

The PSI at cold idle is usually the max for the pump, as oil warms up PSI drops at idle. When revved you get back to max pressure. If you don't, crank bearings are suspect.

The bypass valve in the filter activates and "shunts" the filter media during operation. If the PSI rating for the filter bypass valve is too small, the filter will drop in and out of the circuit, allowing unfiltered oil to reach the engine more frequently. Main purpose of that valve is to bypass a very dirty filter. The Mann filter is a few pounds higher rating than the stock filter, so it has to be dirtier to bypass. It is a larger filter with more media. I like the extra capacity. More oil is more better, big diesel trucks run 40 quarts.

Purolator slaps their name on it and sell it widely. I spoke with Purolator's lab in North Carolina, they handle engine failures blamed on filter issues. Don't believe they would risk corporate profits on some no name filter or junk.

But... in the long run, changing oil and filter frequently, at intervals smaller that Rover had in manuals is the really big help.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by discocrs
I'm all for going to the Rotella oil, but swapping filters for one that artificially raises the oil pressure is a big concern.
If you restrict the oil flow through the filter and raise the oil pressure across the pressure switch, you are restricting oil volume flow by doing so. This is NOT a good idea. There is much hype in the performance world about 'high pressure oil pumps'. BAD idea. you want normal pressure and high VOLUME. Low oil volume flow kills engines just as badly as low pressure.
The land rover oil pump is designed to pump so much oil volume at so much pressure. If you restrict oil volume flow with a different filter, all you're doing is restricting volume flow too. It might turn your oil light off, but you're killing your engine slowly by starving it of oil.
If you use the big Mann filter, see how long it takes for that oil light to go off when you fire the engine. It takes so long because the pump is taking longer to get oil through the system, as it's restricted. You are slowing killing your engine. NOT recommended, unless you want to give your mechanic more work to fix it. Fix the engine problem, not make it worse with band aide solutions.
Pretty much none of this makes any sense at all.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 05:48 AM
  #106  
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The oil pump alone does make PSI far above 50 - 60 PSI at speed, that is why there is a built in spring loaded valve that dumps that extra pressure back to the oil pan, etc. That is in the front engine cover, not the filter. Pressure is engine speed related, so once you get to 2500 rpm or so the excess PSI is being dumped. Some performance race guys "blue print" and polish their oil pump gears to reduce heat transfer to the oil, and reduce load on the system. A lot of high pressure hydraulic gear pumps have polished gear surfaces.

So that valve sets the "top" of the pump output, and if at speed you are not there or pretty close (and are using W40 or W50 or even W60 oil) it is time to look at the https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rite-up-48197/ practice.


The only time my light stayed on longer was first use of the filter, becuase it had to fill the filter, I forgot to. BTW, your light will also stay on if your oil cooler is restricted, it is on the suction side of the circuit, I bought that T shirt with a used radiator.....
 

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Aug 12, 2012 at 08:20 AM.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 08:18 AM
  #107  
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Post 39 addresses the risks of having a higher bypass valve setting in the filter.
Using the L40316 could easily end up with an engine that's toast if the filter clogs.
 

Last edited by antichrist; Aug 12, 2012 at 08:22 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 12:31 PM
  #108  
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Does the huge oil filter the OP posted help extend the life of the oil pump in anyway? It increases oil pressure, does it help lessen the load on the pump. It just seems like a dramatic increase in size that it may affect something.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 05:32 PM
  #109  
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It add maybe 1/2 quart of capacity. Plenty of race cars run large oil pans (in NASCAR to cut the wind from below), and big diesel trucks have like 10 gallon ones. But oil needs to be kept at a desired operating temp. The extra capacity is a plus IMHO. On my D1 the max cold idle, cold revved up,ot revved up was like 44 PSI. Saw a slight bump in idle hot from teens to up in the low 20's. More filter square inches is better, but the best thing is changing them early and often, 3,000 - 5,000 --- not 15,000 - 25,000.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 06:19 PM
  #110  
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It shouldn't have any effect on the oil pump.
 
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