okay, 2nd go'round with early to late headlamp conversion. 1st time, no problem. I used landyzone diagram, to the letter. this time. i was privileged to get the pig-tailed wiring harness from paul, thought that would make things easier, but (looking for the gun to head emoji) I am popping fuses. does anyone have an "easy for idiots" diagram of the wiring, with the harness? or can you point me in the right direction? (thanks zack for your efforts, to help) I know I am overlooking something, can't figure it out. there has to be a good blue/gray to blue/gray out there.... this is the interwebby. where is it?
thanks

 

I made one, that may work for you. I sent you the one done by an electrician, but if you want it done by me, in absolute basic terms, here you go!:

 

thanks again for holding my hand on this. leaving work now to run through the connections with this line up.
oh what lengths.......this better add 25-30 horsepower

 

still flexing my idiot muscle here. okay all my wiring is right, checked, double checked, triple checked. I think my problem is the relay. i have 4prong accessory relay. labeled 30/85/85/87
30= power with fuse?
87= ground
85= piggy from main beam?
86= piggy from hi beam?

is this right??

please advise. i look like an idiot with this 16' cane pole, strapped to the roof rack, dangling a coleman lantern in front of me. plus my radiator is getting clogged with flying insects.

 

On most of the small relays used in the D2, 85 is one side of relay coil and 86 is the other. 30 is the "common" relay contact that closes to either 87a or 87. So in your stated arrangement that fuse would blow when relay is energized, as the path fuse - 30 - 87 - ground is connected.

 

oh, might help to give symptoms. hi beam works, indicators work, parking lights work, but no main beam. it is popping 10amp fuse, the top of the 3 light related, under the drivers dash.

 

so you are saying that i am BASSACKWARDS. i don't even have 1 out of 4. wow, thank you

 

Well, the relay normally has this embossed on the side, or you can read it with an ohm meter. Now your relay might be different.

And you would not be the first to be bamboozled by the relay drawing where the contacts may be shown energized or de-energized, depending on the draftsman (draftsgal?).

 

thanks again, main and hi are both on. no more fuse popping..................but now it will not cycle from hi to main. so they both stay on. when i flip back on the tree nothing changes. the bright indicator on the dash stays on as well.
could i have burnt up the relay?

 

figured out. bad relay. swapped relay and all is good in the world...... well, at least, out the front of my rover.
peace, cheers, love, and happiness............... and no more lantern.