Flippy-out key fob upgrade.
#11
I know this cause I got a flip key done and cut at Ace hardware. You will probably need to use a place that uses a manual cutter, rather than the automated ones like at Home Depot.
Also a word of warning...I went back to the normal style key cause the flip fob is too big and clunky in the ignition area.
#12
Needs to be lined up by the shoulder vs. the tip, or vice versa...cant remember.
I know this cause I got a flip key done and cut at Ace hardware. You will probably need to use a place that uses a manual cutter, rather than the automated ones like at Home Depot.
Also a word of warning...I went back to the normal style key cause the flip fob is too big and clunky in the ignition area.
I know this cause I got a flip key done and cut at Ace hardware. You will probably need to use a place that uses a manual cutter, rather than the automated ones like at Home Depot.
Also a word of warning...I went back to the normal style key cause the flip fob is too big and clunky in the ignition area.
I've got one of those fobs ordered up. I'll let you know how I get on, when it arrives in 6 months
Thanks all. Starting a new thread about programming keys. This one was for flip fob upgrades.....
#13
I tried to make my own key fob flippy key looking thing a while back and it didn't work out so great. I simply epoxied a spare key on the back of my fob and called it good enough for awhile but it wasn't very nice in the pocket. I saw this thread and immediately thought damn, why couldn't it work for a d1 too, then I consulted Google, found this 2Button Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob Case Shell Uncut Blade for Land Rover US | eBay and ordered it too so now I'm happy as a clam
#15
They line up from the shoulder. I had one done at Basics, which didn't work. The other done at Ace which did. The difference was lining it up at the shoulder.
I've got one of those fobs ordered up. I'll let you know how I get on, when it arrives in 6 months
Thanks all. Starting a new thread about programming keys. This one was for flip fob upgrades.....
I've got one of those fobs ordered up. I'll let you know how I get on, when it arrives in 6 months
Thanks all. Starting a new thread about programming keys. This one was for flip fob upgrades.....
Specifically direct them to index on the tip of the key, NOT the shoulder.
The locksmith I went to screwed up, and I had to buy another enclosure/blank(not expensive, just frustrating).
The shoulder is at a different height length than the stock rover key, but the provided blank works just fine if indexed from the tip for cutting.
#16
I have the same(well, as same as a China production line can be) flip out fob shown by LS1.
Specifically direct them to index on the tip of the key, NOT the shoulder.
The locksmith I went to screwed up, and I had to buy another enclosure/blank(not expensive, just frustrating).
The shoulder is at a different height length than the stock rover key, but the provided blank works just fine if indexed from the tip for cutting.
Specifically direct them to index on the tip of the key, NOT the shoulder.
The locksmith I went to screwed up, and I had to buy another enclosure/blank(not expensive, just frustrating).
The shoulder is at a different height length than the stock rover key, but the provided blank works just fine if indexed from the tip for cutting.
The tip on my original is very rounded as opposed to pointy on the blank. So when they were lined up with the tip it was all out of whack. I kinda knew it wouldn't work. They didn't.
With lining up at the shoulder, the pointy tip is a bit extra, but it worked great.
Just my experience.
#17
This is interesting. I had two keys cut lined up from the tip and they didn't work. I had one lined up from the shoulders and it worked first time. Not saying your key doesn't work, it obviously does.
The tip on my original is very rounded as opposed to pointy on the blank. So when they were lined up with the tip it was all out of whack. I kinda knew it wouldn't work. They didn't.
With lining up at the shoulder, the pointy tip is a bit extra, but it worked great.
Just my experience.
The tip on my original is very rounded as opposed to pointy on the blank. So when they were lined up with the tip it was all out of whack. I kinda knew it wouldn't work. They didn't.
With lining up at the shoulder, the pointy tip is a bit extra, but it worked great.
Just my experience.
The tip should be contoured to match the original key. I guess you could run into a situation where the angle of the tip would result in there not being enough material to engage the very end of the cylinder, but... *shrug* Guess that's one more thing to look out for.
#19
Flippy out key fob upgrade, complete....
I may have got to the bottom of the tip vs shoulder question.
This is a photo of myoriginal key vs the new blank, which came with the flippy fob.
The new key has shoulders that are too short. There isn't enough 'key'. The guy in True Value (not Ace as I said earlier) says this could be so when the new key is cut, and lined up by the tip, it cuts the new shoulder as well, which then matches the original.
Some blanks I had in the past had shoulders already at the correct length, and so they had to be lined up with those shoulders. As it's the shoulders that stop the key going in the lock any further and the key pattern is then 'read', the shoulders are crucial.
So. If your key has shoulders that come at the correct length, the cutter lines up with them. If the blank comes and has short shoulders, they need to line it up at the tip. Rounded vs pointy is irrelevant.
So. I get the thing cut, get it home and of course it doesn't turn. I tickle it with a fine file. To 'wear it in'. Round the pattern over very slightly. It still doesn't turn.
I then take a flat file and very slightly increase the shoulder length. Couple of strokes of a fine flat file. Now it works perfectly.
And here it is. One flippy out key fob upgrade. Finished.
Cost.
Key circuit board from Abran $75
Flip fob from China $10 I think
Key cutting $5 I think (I tipped him a bit coz we had the springs out and everything at one stage)
Nanocom from News - NANOCOM Evolution $416
Cheap as chips.
I may have got to the bottom of the tip vs shoulder question.
This is a photo of myoriginal key vs the new blank, which came with the flippy fob.
The new key has shoulders that are too short. There isn't enough 'key'. The guy in True Value (not Ace as I said earlier) says this could be so when the new key is cut, and lined up by the tip, it cuts the new shoulder as well, which then matches the original.
Some blanks I had in the past had shoulders already at the correct length, and so they had to be lined up with those shoulders. As it's the shoulders that stop the key going in the lock any further and the key pattern is then 'read', the shoulders are crucial.
So. If your key has shoulders that come at the correct length, the cutter lines up with them. If the blank comes and has short shoulders, they need to line it up at the tip. Rounded vs pointy is irrelevant.
So. I get the thing cut, get it home and of course it doesn't turn. I tickle it with a fine file. To 'wear it in'. Round the pattern over very slightly. It still doesn't turn.
I then take a flat file and very slightly increase the shoulder length. Couple of strokes of a fine flat file. Now it works perfectly.
And here it is. One flippy out key fob upgrade. Finished.
Cost.
Key circuit board from Abran $75
Flip fob from China $10 I think
Key cutting $5 I think (I tipped him a bit coz we had the springs out and everything at one stage)
Nanocom from News - NANOCOM Evolution $416
Cheap as chips.
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