great!!!! hi low linkage broke...i think?
Just as it says, my linkage or something snapped. I was going through high and low and then boom its pretty free flowing now, lol. The truck chimes as if I was out of gear but it moves when I put it in reverse and drive. I will post a you tube video so you can get a better look
Well I found the problem, snapped right before it goes into the shifter

So now my question is can I replace the shifter without removing the backing plate...I really don't wanna drill out all those pop rivets

So now my question is can I replace the shifter without removing the backing plate...I really don't wanna drill out all those pop rivets
If your Disco is a 99-01 I would drill the rivets and replace your t-case shifter with a D1 shifter to enable your CDL. I have two complete sets for sale here https://landroverforums.com/forum/pr...inkages-57833/
I'm not just trying to sell my parts, it is a great upgrade if you do any offroading.
I'm not just trying to sell my parts, it is a great upgrade if you do any offroading.
I just today pulled all this apart.
So first of all, I have a non-cdl shifter I'll sell you cheap. Pm me if you don't have a cdl, pm charlie if you do.
Second, there's no way I'd attempt this from underneath. It's pretty tough to get to all the nuts on the transfer case, and from underneath I think it'd be a nightmare. I didn't drill the rivets. I disconnected the battery, waited 10 minutes for the srs to simmer down, used a dremel cutoff wheel to cut the the rivet heads down, then tapped them out with a small punch. Wasn't too bad at all.
That said, the job will probly take 3-4 hours if you'e a decent mechanic.
So first of all, I have a non-cdl shifter I'll sell you cheap. Pm me if you don't have a cdl, pm charlie if you do.
Second, there's no way I'd attempt this from underneath. It's pretty tough to get to all the nuts on the transfer case, and from underneath I think it'd be a nightmare. I didn't drill the rivets. I disconnected the battery, waited 10 minutes for the srs to simmer down, used a dremel cutoff wheel to cut the the rivet heads down, then tapped them out with a small punch. Wasn't too bad at all.
That said, the job will probly take 3-4 hours if you'e a decent mechanic.
Last edited by dr. mordo; Apr 26, 2013 at 06:33 PM.
I honestly don't know how people work from under the t-case. I could barely get one hand up there from under the truck. Drilling out the rivets was WAY easier than people made it sound. There were just some metal shavings that needed to be vacuumed out.
Weighing out my options, I do have a t case with the Cdl nipple, but its I little to much for me as far as time is concerned to mod it out. I will also need the linkage that goes to the t case as well as a new shifter...that one looks like it may be rusted and self welded to each other. Rover land has a complete set for $100. Dr. Mordo do you have the linkage cable that you can sell with the sifter for less than $100?
The DI shifters I have replace your current H/L shifter and enable your CDL, no other linkage needed. See this link for instructions.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/D1_to_D2_cdl.html
The DI linkages I have for sale move freely, definitely not "rusted and self welded to each other"
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/D1_to_D2_cdl.html
The DI linkages I have for sale move freely, definitely not "rusted and self welded to each other"
This reminded me of way back in 1966, when I bought my new Land Rover series IIa "88". They had a small rod coming straight up out of the floor, with a yellow **** on it, if I recall correctly; it was pushed down for low, and left up for high range. Well, the idiot salesman who sold me the vehicle showed me repeatedly how to put it down hard for low range. Well, soon after proudly running around with my new Land Rover, I was just as intent as he, in pushing down hard on that ****, and on about my third time, the small rod broke off. Later, when I took it all apart to see why it had broken, etc., I learned that there was no reason on this earth to be pushing it down hard, as it only had a 1/4" pivot bolt, that sheared off from my, and the salesman's abuse. One simply had to gently push it down, never to slam it down hard as the salesman was demonstrating. Goes to show you that some, maybe most, auto salesmen don't have a clue what they are doing at times. After learning what made my high/low range **** work, repaired it properly, I never had another problem with it for over 100,000 miles.

Just as it says, my linkage or something snapped. I was going through high and low and then boom its pretty free flowing now, lol. The truck chimes as if I was out of gear but it moves when I put it in reverse and drive. I will post a you tube video so you can get a better look
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