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Helicoil hell

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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 07:01 PM
  #1  
NorCalDisco's Avatar
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Drifting
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From: Roseville, CA
Default Helicoil hell

When I took my heads off the gasket was very blown at the top center of both gaskets. I had a lot of theories as to what was wrong, but just fixed everything as I went along. When trying to torque the head bolts up I figured out what was wrong with them. The threads were lose in the block. They came right out with the bolt.
I bought a set of Helicoils and installed them sort of by the directions. The only thing I did wrong was I put them in the bottom of the hole instead of the top and I messed up the tool trying to drive the first one into the hole so the second coil didn't thread all that great.
Btw, I never heard of these before I googled what to do about head bolt threads.
My problem now it's that when I did the tightening sequence I got all to 15 ftlbs and went 90 degrees and a second 90, but the helicoil bolts were way too easy to tighten. I was going to leave them, but I just felt wrong about it. I spun the bolts another 6 times around before they started developing torque. At this point there is no reasonable way to determine what 15+90+90-what it took to get them snug would equal. I torqued them to 50 and they held, but that didn't seem like the massive amount of force that I applied to the other bolts so I decided to go to 70. The first one I did with the tool held at 70, but the messed up one broke loose just short of 70. now I have to redo that head and want some advice as to what will work . Do I double stack the coils? Is there a safe torque for these bolts? I just want to fix it right. .. Whatever that ends up being. For reference these are the to center bolts on both sides and I'm not sure how they got this way. I just bought it messed up and thought it would be a simple head gasket job with a small complication here and there.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 07:27 PM
  #2  
abran's Avatar
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I know its a bummer, but start over with new heads. A used set can be had for around $150, then whatever your local shop wants for machining etc.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #3  
abran's Avatar
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Just to clarify I used a few Helicoils back in my Volkswagen days on the spark plug holes, they always seemed so Mickey Mouse, although they would work. But with the extra work that is needed on a LR V8, I just don't think it's prudent.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 09:15 PM
  #4  
NorCalDisco's Avatar
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From: Roseville, CA
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It's the holes in the block, not the heads. The heads have already been machined. I'm thinking of using ezlok hole repair sleeves. Anyone use them? How much torque should I put on the good helicoil? The other bolts had roughly 90-100 when I backed them out.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 09:20 PM
  #5  
Kenso's Avatar
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From: Wilmington NC
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Timeserts are what some manufacturers recommend to repair stripped block threads (Honda/Acura, GM, possibly others). Never tried them on a Rover so I can't comment via first hand experience there, but they work pretty well on Honda blocks. Vastly superior to helicoils.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 09:54 PM
  #6  
abran's Avatar
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From: Huntington Beach CA
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Originally Posted by NorCalDisco
It's the holes in the block, not the heads. The heads have already been machined. I'm thinking of using ezlok hole repair sleeves. Anyone use them? How much torque should I put on the good helicoil? The other bolts had roughly 90-100 when I backed them out.
Duh! Sorry...
 
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Old Sep 3, 2014 | 06:43 AM
  #7  
drowssap's Avatar
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From: Boston Strong
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timeserts or stacked helicoils might work, but i would suggest moving on to head studs. Especially seeing your new headbolt are no good any more, so rather buy the same bolts all over again i would go with studs that can be reused.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #8  
OffroadFrance's Avatar
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From: Near Bordeaux, France
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Half of the vintage cars around the world are held together with helicoils into alloy as the parts are so rare. The fact the bolts seem easier is that it's carbon steel on high tensile carbon steel rather than alloy so there is a lot less friction. You can assemble helicoils with a loctite grip sealer to arrest them in position. I've used hundreds of helicoils in magnesium in my Hewland FT200 gearboxes and on the Pilbeam magnesium wheel hubs. Magnesium is even worse than cast alu for bolts stripping threads.

Helicoils are also used as primary thread inserts on many aircraft to avoid metal to alu contact.

Helicoil | Threaded Inserts | Wire Thread Inserts

Résultats Google Recherche d'images correspondant à http://www.motorsport-sales.com/images/Copy%20(2)%20of%20iphone%20pictures%20056.jpg
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 02:42 PM
  #9  
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From: Howell, NJ
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Cant use regular helicoils. you need to go to grainger and get the extra long ones.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 03:04 PM
  #10  
NorCalDisco's Avatar
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From: Roseville, CA
Default great advice

2x on the extra long heli coils. I used standard ones from napa on both sides and one held and is all holding at 70 ft lbs+ a quarter of a turn. The other pulled out at 65 ft lbs and I'm in the process of replacing it with a ezlok or two. Just depends if I can get them to line up.
 
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