Sounds like my 2003 HSE Diso with only 54,000 miles. Needless to say, I just retrived her from the shop about 2 weeks ago for my steering pump $$$$! I'm going to try this out. Good luck wishes are in order!

 

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Not 24hrs after my wife bought her "dream car", thing would crank and crank but no start. I singed up with you guys, found this thread which described everything I was experiencing and what I needed to do.
2ish hours later the thing runs like magic. Next time will take half as long. Definitely plugging in harness from above before bolting on sensor is the way to go.
Thanks a million again!

 

Did my crank sensor today. Truck sputtered so I pulled off and shut it down. It wouldnt restart at first but after 2 minutes it did. Drove it home and shut it off. Wouldnt restart after that. Didn't have a code reader so I checked for spark. No spark. Got one at Autozone for $59. It was labeled "import something" but the sensor was Bosch. That connector is a PITA! Anyyway, swapped it out and started right up.

 

Yippee! Take the funds saved on the DIY and buy an Ultra Gauge. Then you will have code reader and data display. Tell SWMBO it is an early holiday present.

 

Hey guys,

I wanted to share a bit more detail on my experience with a crankshaft sensor swap. My whole job took about 5 hours - without a tool b*tch, you spend that time getting up and back under the truck over and over matching things up. Here's the tools I had to use...

For the actual job:

• 1/4 & 3/8 drive long wobble extension (Check Harbor Freight)
• 7mm 1/4 socket, 7mm wrench
• 8mm 1/4 socket

For dropping the exhaust, yours may be completely different, but here's what mine had on it. For what it's worth, they were 3 through bolts, not studs hanging or anything on mine. I got replacement bolts and nuts when I saw that I'd be dropping the exhaust. Probably could have gotten away with using 40mm, but whatever.

• 12mm wrench, 13mm wrench
• 10mm 3/8 drive socket
• Replacement bolts I used: 8mm x 45mm 1.25 pitch

Dropping the exhaust on that side didn't yield as much room as I hoped, but it certainly let me reach better since it gave the pipe the ability to wiggle a bit. It still wasn't fun, but it definitely helped.


I shot the exhaust bolts an hour earlier with some Kroil but your favorite penetrate spray will work nicely. No need for the sensor or it's connections, they're such small bolts and really don't have much torque on them at all. At least mine didn't.


Fitting the sockets, wrenches, etc is quite painful. I found most of the time I couldn't see what I was doing, and really had to rely on "the force" instead.



I couldn't get a ratcheting wrench to work at any point of this. I did find using the log wobble extension helped coming from the front of the truck to undo both the 7mm and the 8mm for a couple of them helped me quite a bit. I had to seat the socket on the bolt FIRST, then stick the extension in to catch it. Not too horrible, but still just a helpful tip.


Once the sensor comes out, it really doesn't gain any play, so that unattainable plug connector will still be taunting you from afar.


There is a press on the harness that you need to leverage to release it from it's one 'snap' that holds the harness and sensor connector together. I found pulling the old sensor with my left hand while pressing the lever with the right worked for me. Yes, your arms and hands really won't fit, so it'll end up just being fingers. Putting the harness back together with the new sensor I had to do with one hand. no way I could get both up there, but I struggled a bit then heard that satisfying "click!"



I was surprised how quick and easy the heat shield did go back on. Lined up easy and bolts threaded in. I expected more suffering there. Must just seat nicely in the old gunk.


The parts I used were from Napa, I ordered the generic since the Bosch one was going to take 5-7 days to get... Turns out, in the CSS9280 Echlin box was a genuine Bosch made in Germany!


















Please note, the SPACER CANNOT BE USED! It's on the wrong side!

Sensor - Spacers - Nuts, in that order when putting together.


My job had started when my truck died out in the car wash. After that day, it acted up again and again, worse and worse each time over the next couple days.


Since I know this truck will be going through water crossings, I wanted to get a bit of protection on the connection to the sensor. The sensor itself didn't concern me after inspection, but the plug situation needed some love. So, dielectric grease it was! Sorry for the label on my tube, it's dissolving!





Don't be afraid to use lots of this. Anything too much that you put in will be pushed out the sides anyway. This'll keep the water out, keep corrosion off and most importantly, give me peace of mind.






I drove my truck yesterday for an hour or so with no issue! Sure beats the running for 10 seconds!


Anyway, feel free to drop me a PM if you have questions and I hope this helps someone in the future!


Dave

 

Thanks for the write-up, tips and good pics! Always nice to have some details on wrenches and things that worked for others before going under the truck.

 

Great write up! But nothing on the most difficult part I can barley see the plug into the harness much less get my hands on it. How in the heck do you unplug this thing?

 

Long needlenose pliers, and that hot Asian babe down the street with tiny hands. It has been said that having two people, with one working from above, makes it a quick job.

 

I am doing mine today , What a PITA this thing is due to confined spaces ..Waiting on parts is the worst ..

 

Done this twice, by myself, without dropping the exhaust. It's another example of "why the @#$$ didn't LR"..."make the harness 2" longer" (in this case). But I've got it down to an hour and unplug/plug in the pigtail 1-handed (no gloves) works best for me. Just takes patience.

Mine wasn't bad, was just going on a road trip and didn't want to rely on a 9 year old part known to fail. Kept the old one as back-up.