How to change Crankshaft position sensor 2000 DII
The cap and sensor part were the easy parts to get off. The electrical plug was the hard part. I couldn't get the plug out of the bracket, the boy came to help later on and took the bolt off the bracket and was able to get the plug disconnected that way. Sensor and cover goes back on pretty easily. I stood over the vehicle while he was under to snap the plug back into place.
Having smaller fore arms is quite beneficially for the job, although I still had rub burns on my arms from sticking my hands up into the unknown. And I'm a lady, so if I can do it, you can to.
Anyone know why my CPS would be bent like this? When I went to replace my CPS, as I was taking out the old one I realized that the needle was bent, but I do not know how that couple be possible. Any ideas?
Definitely do the connection from the top. Much easier. There's really only room for one hand in there so I used my left hand to line it up and then a pair of needle nose pliers to press the connection together. There is no sweeter sound in the world than that "snap" you get when they final mate up properly!
Wife drove the 5 miles to school to drop off the kids and as she turned onto the street a block from the school... The rover died...She was able to roll into a church parking lot but couldn't get it started again. Would turn over but wouldn't start. She walked the girls the remaining block and called her mom to come get her. I was at work. After work I picked her and the girls up from home and drove to the church. Hopped in the rover started it up and drove it home. It died about 1/4 mile from my driveway but it's a slope so I coasted it into the driveway. Wouldn't start.
Hopped on here... read a few posts on what would cause that. Ruled out other causes... and bought a new one from Advance.
Today, I finally had a chance to fix it. The job was a lot easier than I expected. I used 1/4 inch drive swivel head ratchet and deep well 7mm & 8mm sockets. I broke the 7mm bolts free on the cover and used a little trick I learned a while back... coat the outside of your sockets with spray on bedliner. It will give you some extra grip so you can spin the bolts and nuts off by hand. I did it all from the bottom side with the truck on ramps. I was able to use both hands one on each side of the exhaust. I ended up with oil on my forearms and wrists which ended up on the exhaust and actually helped my skin slide better with less scraping. Forearms are a little rashed up and bruised from forcing them in the tight places... but the job was really more tedious than difficult. With two hands... removing and reconnecting was relatively easy as well.
Just want to say thanks again... This forum is gold if you have the patience to search and ask questions.
Clay
Hopped on here... read a few posts on what would cause that. Ruled out other causes... and bought a new one from Advance.
Today, I finally had a chance to fix it. The job was a lot easier than I expected. I used 1/4 inch drive swivel head ratchet and deep well 7mm & 8mm sockets. I broke the 7mm bolts free on the cover and used a little trick I learned a while back... coat the outside of your sockets with spray on bedliner. It will give you some extra grip so you can spin the bolts and nuts off by hand. I did it all from the bottom side with the truck on ramps. I was able to use both hands one on each side of the exhaust. I ended up with oil on my forearms and wrists which ended up on the exhaust and actually helped my skin slide better with less scraping. Forearms are a little rashed up and bruised from forcing them in the tight places... but the job was really more tedious than difficult. With two hands... removing and reconnecting was relatively easy as well.
Just want to say thanks again... This forum is gold if you have the patience to search and ask questions.
Clay
Wife drove the 5 miles to school to drop off the kids and as she turned onto the street a block from the school... The rover died...She was able to roll into a church parking lot but couldn't get it started again. Would turn over but wouldn't start. She walked the girls the remaining block and called her mom to come get her. I was at work. After work I picked her and the girls up from home and drove to the church. Hopped in the rover started it up and drove it home. It died about 1/4 mile from my driveway but it's a slope so I coasted it into the driveway. Wouldn't start.
Hopped on here... read a few posts on what would cause that. Ruled out other causes... and bought a new one from Advance.
Today, I finally had a chance to fix it. The job was a lot easier than I expected. I used 1/4 inch drive swivel head ratchet and deep well 7mm & 8mm sockets. I broke the 7mm bolts free on the cover and used a little trick I learned a while back... coat the outside of your sockets with spray on bedliner. It will give you some extra grip so you can spin the bolts and nuts off by hand. I did it all from the bottom side with the truck on ramps. I was able to use both hands one on each side of the exhaust. I ended up with oil on my forearms and wrists which ended up on the exhaust and actually helped my skin slide better with less scraping. Forearms are a little rashed up and bruised from forcing them in the tight places... but the job was really more tedious than difficult. With two hands... removing and reconnecting was relatively easy as well.
Just want to say thanks again... This forum is gold if you have the patience to search and ask questions.
Clay
Hopped on here... read a few posts on what would cause that. Ruled out other causes... and bought a new one from Advance.
Today, I finally had a chance to fix it. The job was a lot easier than I expected. I used 1/4 inch drive swivel head ratchet and deep well 7mm & 8mm sockets. I broke the 7mm bolts free on the cover and used a little trick I learned a while back... coat the outside of your sockets with spray on bedliner. It will give you some extra grip so you can spin the bolts and nuts off by hand. I did it all from the bottom side with the truck on ramps. I was able to use both hands one on each side of the exhaust. I ended up with oil on my forearms and wrists which ended up on the exhaust and actually helped my skin slide better with less scraping. Forearms are a little rashed up and bruised from forcing them in the tight places... but the job was really more tedious than difficult. With two hands... removing and reconnecting was relatively easy as well.
Just want to say thanks again... This forum is gold if you have the patience to search and ask questions.
Clay
Dave aka Ghaniba
Thanks once again for this forum and all the great advice!
Rover left my wife sit. I already had a pretty good hunch it was the CPS, just from the way it died and was cranking really good on the optima battery. I went to get her and it started. I hoped maybe it was just her key, but knew better. Truck ran for about 2 miles, and then died at a precarious place on a highway exit ramp. So, as other have already stated, just because it starts, it is not all going to be ok. Exercise caution if you suspect the CPS, because it can go off like a light switch at any moment.
I thought I was prepared from the stories here, but the connector truly sucked. Even with a bunch of long needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight I had real doubts if it was ever going to click. They are simply too big for the space. I finally succeeded by holding the attached end with a loop of coat anger and pushing the new part on with a few fingers. Next time, I plan to order some very long, slender clamping forceps to hold the plugs. Will report if that goes any better. Thanks again, gang!
Rover left my wife sit. I already had a pretty good hunch it was the CPS, just from the way it died and was cranking really good on the optima battery. I went to get her and it started. I hoped maybe it was just her key, but knew better. Truck ran for about 2 miles, and then died at a precarious place on a highway exit ramp. So, as other have already stated, just because it starts, it is not all going to be ok. Exercise caution if you suspect the CPS, because it can go off like a light switch at any moment.
I thought I was prepared from the stories here, but the connector truly sucked. Even with a bunch of long needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight I had real doubts if it was ever going to click. They are simply too big for the space. I finally succeeded by holding the attached end with a loop of coat anger and pushing the new part on with a few fingers. Next time, I plan to order some very long, slender clamping forceps to hold the plugs. Will report if that goes any better. Thanks again, gang!
Outstanding write up.
perfectly running 04 - 170k on od/ replaced block @75k. I take excellent care of it; so this abrupt wont start yesterday was peculiar minutes after shutting off smooth running truck.
Believed it to be fuel related; as it cranks but wont fire.
Started w relay swap with ignition & fuel. Theb it fired up. (Which was perhaps from sitting long enough to begin diagnosing). ran perfectly again. Drove 3 miles, then began to idle low at stop lite, engine cut out.
it happen to rain over the course of lunch - cooled the tempature down & i was able to drive home 30min without a priblem. I changed CPS following morning.
local autozone had part in stock. 80$
back to normal.
Excellent source of help when ppl take time to share experience. Thank you.
perfectly running 04 - 170k on od/ replaced block @75k. I take excellent care of it; so this abrupt wont start yesterday was peculiar minutes after shutting off smooth running truck.
Believed it to be fuel related; as it cranks but wont fire.
Started w relay swap with ignition & fuel. Theb it fired up. (Which was perhaps from sitting long enough to begin diagnosing). ran perfectly again. Drove 3 miles, then began to idle low at stop lite, engine cut out.
it happen to rain over the course of lunch - cooled the tempature down & i was able to drive home 30min without a priblem. I changed CPS following morning.
local autozone had part in stock. 80$
back to normal.
Excellent source of help when ppl take time to share experience. Thank you.


