How to change Crankshaft position sensor 2000 DII
8th Gear
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Bergen County New Jersey
Thanks for the write up. Mine had me confused since after I locked and unlocked it started up. Let it warm up, shut it off, and it never started again. Bosch sensor was only $42 and since it was described as a part that fails, I figured I'd give it a shot. Proceeded with replacement carefully per the write up and it started right up.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 240
From: Alabama + Vegas + Texas
Three Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 81
Likes: 5
From: Michigan City, IN
Just spent 2 hours trying to find the plug ends to make a hook for the lower and use a LONG screwdriver to push the top. Found them. Don’t have hook made, and wife is back with her family for thanksgiving. Be back in a couple of weeks to try again. At least it was free.
Camel Trophy
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 3,969
Likes: 859
From: Britainistan, UK
Is the crankshaft sensor something that should be replaced as preventive maintenance? Or is there a warning sign before things go really bad and then replace it. I'm all about preventive maintenance.
If you get any warning signs they'll be rough running after a cold start when put in gear, but it quickly goes away without any codes. Or it'll crank up fine, you drive it, turn it off, and it won't want to re-start. Or if you ignore the warning signs long enough it should eventually throw a fault code although it could just be a pending code.
I normally carry good spares in my D2's but I used em on a friends P38 that left him stranded and one D2 I've been working on.
On D2's that I buy I go ahead and replace em. On a stock height D2 it's kind of a PITA to get up in there. I find it a breeze on lifted D2's. The plug is usually the biggest PITA.
The last one I swapped out on Old Faithful after Hurricane Harvey took me 15min from start to finish.
I normally carry good spares in my D2's but I used em on a friends P38 that left him stranded and one D2 I've been working on.
On D2's that I buy I go ahead and replace em. On a stock height D2 it's kind of a PITA to get up in there. I find it a breeze on lifted D2's. The plug is usually the biggest PITA.
The last one I swapped out on Old Faithful after Hurricane Harvey took me 15min from start to finish.
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 1
Thank you!!
Crankshaft position and speed sensor (CPS) is one of many electronic sensors used by the
ECM (engine computer management) to run the engine. As it name implies, it sends signal to the ECM to determine the position of the crankshaft, its angular velocity. This in turn is processed by the ECM to aid in ignition timing and fuel injection timing. Malfunction of this sensor alone can shutdown your engine quickly like a switch.
Pure CPS failure will most likely not cause any SERVICE ENGINE SOON or MIL fault to light up. One of the signs of imminent CPS failure is a perfectly running engine that just stalled.
It may be subsequently restarted but be forewarned, it can stop at anytime FOR GOOD unless replaced.
My personal experience was after the truck was restarted after my initial stall, the truck was able to be driven another 2 miles to its destination. After shutdown, the engine would not start. The starter would crank but there would be NO IGNITION.
Things to check first.
Inertia switch on firewall was not activated.
2 fuses inside the driver side not blown.
No spark. I use an induction timing light to determine if there was spark of not.
TOOL:
7 mm wrench or 7 mm socket
8 mm wrench or 8 mm socket
Always make sure the the truck is up on jack stands before crawling under.
Use proper chocks.
Approach to the CPS is best done from under the truck.
It is located on the rear part of the engine block below cylinder 7. See pic 365.jpg
The cover is secured by 7mm bolts. Using a socket ratchet combo will speed up removal of bolt versus wrench.
Once the cover is removed, the CPS is secured by 2 nuts ( 8mm ) and a collar/spacer. See pic 368.jpg.
The connector also has to be removed from slot securing it to the engine block. Once removed it may be separated from the rest of the engine harness.
Replacement is the reverse of installation.
Nuts are torqued to 5 lb/ft.
Don't forget the spacers.
Careful not to introduce foreign metallic objects into the block since the tip of the CPS is magnetic and can pick up extra nuts and .... you know the rest.
About 60 min. for entire job.
Ed
ECM (engine computer management) to run the engine. As it name implies, it sends signal to the ECM to determine the position of the crankshaft, its angular velocity. This in turn is processed by the ECM to aid in ignition timing and fuel injection timing. Malfunction of this sensor alone can shutdown your engine quickly like a switch.
Pure CPS failure will most likely not cause any SERVICE ENGINE SOON or MIL fault to light up. One of the signs of imminent CPS failure is a perfectly running engine that just stalled.
It may be subsequently restarted but be forewarned, it can stop at anytime FOR GOOD unless replaced.
My personal experience was after the truck was restarted after my initial stall, the truck was able to be driven another 2 miles to its destination. After shutdown, the engine would not start. The starter would crank but there would be NO IGNITION.
Things to check first.
Inertia switch on firewall was not activated.
2 fuses inside the driver side not blown.
No spark. I use an induction timing light to determine if there was spark of not.
TOOL:
7 mm wrench or 7 mm socket
8 mm wrench or 8 mm socket
Always make sure the the truck is up on jack stands before crawling under.
Use proper chocks.
Approach to the CPS is best done from under the truck.
It is located on the rear part of the engine block below cylinder 7. See pic 365.jpg
The cover is secured by 7mm bolts. Using a socket ratchet combo will speed up removal of bolt versus wrench.
Once the cover is removed, the CPS is secured by 2 nuts ( 8mm ) and a collar/spacer. See pic 368.jpg.
The connector also has to be removed from slot securing it to the engine block. Once removed it may be separated from the rest of the engine harness.
Replacement is the reverse of installation.
Nuts are torqued to 5 lb/ft.
Don't forget the spacers.
Careful not to introduce foreign metallic objects into the block since the tip of the CPS is magnetic and can pick up extra nuts and .... you know the rest.
About 60 min. for entire job.
Ed
