I'm not sure if it'll work but I'm willing to try getting this done myself, i just need to be able to unclip the sensor and clipping the new one on and I'd be done in 20 minutes. So aggravating to having the vehicle towed to my mechanic because I can see what needs to be done but I can't get my hands in there. I love a challenge but at some point I'm gonna cry "uncle". hahaha.

I'm buying these plyers, it's a set of 4 for $38 bucks on Amazon. if they don't reach, i'll send them back and the I'm calling the tow truck.

 

If you can get about 6 moving blankets, you could lay a piece of wood across and lay on that to get in. But you need to support the wood.

 

I am about to embark into this adventure, did you find the pliers useful? I would be curious to hear any tips you may have after having gone through this.

 

There is a thread on this but my experience was DefaultFinally got it figured out. It is imperative that you plug in the CKPS prior to mounting it to the engine. would have saved me an hour and much frustration if I did that first.
I disconnected the exhaust, three bolts, that bought me a few mm of room for my forearm. Which was actually meaningful.
Used lots of electrical connector cleaner. It would be a 30 minute job knowing what I learned about connecting the electric first.

 

Thank you for that tip! (about connecting the cable before mounting the part to the engine).

 

After a combined 3 hours and 45 minutes, I was finally able to replace the sensor. I used a 1/4 mini ratchet to remove the nuts and screws from the cover and the sensor itself. A flat screwdriver helped me gently push the tab on the connector and slide it out of the harness rail. I also used the same screwdriver to carefully pry the tab and disconnect the connector.

This initial part of the job took about 30 minutes. The rest of the time was spent figuring out how to connect the new sensor to the engine connector. Without ramps or jacks, I had to work under the Disco, which was quite claustrophobic. I attempted to connect it from above the engine but gave up due to limited cable length and visibility. Ultimately, I managed to connect it from underneath the vehicle. Hearing the tab click into place was incredibly satisfying!

Now, my only concern is that I haven't been able to slide the full connector back into the engine rail/harness. Is this absolutely necessary? I'm worried that the connector might dangle slightly and potentially melt if it comes into contact with a hot part of the engine.

Thoughts?

 

I just wanted to express my gratitude for this thread. I’ve owned my 2001 Disco since 2007, and it has only left me stranded twice, both times in parking lots, thankfully. On both occasions, the issue was the crankshaft position sensor. It’s been many years since the last incident, so when my Disco stalled yesterday morning as I was pulling into work, I didn’t immediately recognize the problem. I came here and conducted a quick search (less than three minutes to diagnose the issue). I called AutoZone and arranged for them to deliver a replacement from another store in the area. I had it delivered to me after work along with the necessary tools: 7mm and 8mm wrenches, and a flathead screwdriver. My son and I managed to replace it in the parking lot in just 32 minutes. I didn’t even need to jack up the vehicle or drop the exhaust. It was a tight fit, but there was still enough room to maneuver. Easy job.

 

A big shout out to this Forum again.....this keeps my rig on the road! Driving down the highway at 65mph when all of sudden RPMs drop and engine cuts out! Somehow I manage to get over but hit the (tight) shoulder. Death avoided for myself and tow truck driver. Sketch AF! Get a tow back to the homestead and find this thread among others and I pick up a CKPS at Autozone. Unfortunately, it was not a BOSCH. Job took about an hour and many pointers in this post helped. I didn't drop the exhaust. I was able to use a 1/4" mini ratchet with the 7mm & 8mm. A key tool was the LONG screwdriver. I could get this above the frame section by the brake lines and unclip the plug while I pulled the wire below. Popped right out after a few attempts. I could only (barely) get one arm in there so using the screwdriver just above the frame was perfect. Frame/exhaust rash sucks. Another key was clipping the new one in from ABOVE. I managed to get the plug out just enough from the top/back of engine. I could then clip the new one in. Dropped it down and reattached it. Fired up! Thanks to all who have contributed to this post. It keeps on giving. I had the original CKPS and have just under 200K.

WARNING SIGNS: Over the weekend I changed out sway bar links front/back along with sway bar bushings. After the install it wouldn't start. Tried again and nothing. Then she fired up like usual. Next day she died as I was getting on the highway for a split second. She cut out in a flash and back on. Check engine light flashed and went out. Everything back to normal. Strange but ok. Then 15 minutes later she died for good. Never had a code or Check engine light come on prior. Wouldn't fire up this morning.



Don't believe BOSCH is made in Mexico. The CKPS had no brand on it.

Didn't need this on my '01

 

How long of a screwdriver are we talking about here? I want to order one and keep it onboard just in case this happens on the road.

 

What says on The box does not matter, there was a tread a while back in 2016, one of members had found out that there are some genuine Bosch parts in AutoZone but labeled as DuraLast brand , boxes would say made in random countries , like Cypress or Malaysia , etc. ,,
ONE OF item’s was CPS & other one Brake pedal sensor , I remember going & buying 2 X CPS & one BPS,, & both parts did say “Bosch made in Germany” on them but boxes had some part # & just said “Made in Cypress”.