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How long to change a water pump

Old Feb 3, 2022 | 05:26 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by SWM
So to make sure I understand you. . . coat both sides of the gasket with RTV stick the gasket to the pump and then bolt it on finger tight to cure overnight? Then torque to spec in the morning? Do you have a gasket preference for the RTV-Gasket-RTV sandwich? I just ordered the FlowKooler pump referenced in another recent post if it matters.
I'm going to offer a counterpoint and just say no RTV. I've never had a problem with these leaking at the gasket, and if you ever have to replace it again, the OG gasket material is hard enough to remove, RTV will just make it that much more difficult.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 06:15 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by SWM
So to make sure I understand you. . . coat both sides of the gasket with RTV stick the gasket to the pump and then bolt it on finger tight to cure overnight? Then torque to spec in the morning? Do you have a gasket preference for the RTV-Gasket-RTV sandwich? I just ordered the FlowKooler pump referenced in another recent post if it matters.
Affirmitive
 
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 08:39 PM
  #13  
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If you put enough RTV you don't even have to scrape the old gasket.

I'm kidding, I'm kidding
 
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 06:58 AM
  #14  
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I am in the no RTV camp. FWIW, the RAVE says nothing about using any type of gasket sealant. And, the three I've done were done with no RTV and all is well. I see Extinct is in the other camp, but since he uses RTV his experience doesn't speak to what happens if you don't. Maybe there's no harm in using RTV, but as Brandon wrote it likely makes for more work if you have to do the job again.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 06:37 PM
  #15  
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I put a very thin bead on both sides.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 07:10 PM
  #16  
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AT least 20 water pumps here. Dry gaskets get pushed in to the grooves in the machined surfaces. Over time, the gaskets stick to the metal, as many of you have found out the hard way. Silicone on both sides of the gasket, put on while still wet/tacky will bond to the aluminum surfaces and seal it to the gasket. Let it cure 24 hrs before torqueing gives enough resilience to fill any imperfections when torqued. Next change the silicone will peel off much easier than the paper will.

But hey, what do I know, I've only done 20+.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2022 | 11:36 PM
  #17  
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2-4 hrs is crazy... did mine in about 45 min from removal to replacement. I used the blue RTV sealant with gasket, put an even thin coat on the mating surfaces... wait 15 min for set up, put on the gasket and reinstall... wait for full cure before driving. Went smooth ...
 
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Old Feb 8, 2022 | 09:39 AM
  #18  
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Be sure to keep your bolts in the same location. I drew an outline of the gasket no a piece of cardboard and stuck the bolts into the cardboard as I removed them. Confusing a longer bolt location with a shorter can end in tears.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2022 | 09:41 AM
  #19  
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I went with the spray on gasket sealer and paper gasket and have no problems. Red stuff used in the AB videos. Helps hold it in place too.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2022 | 07:33 PM
  #20  
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I was taught by quite the rover/ foreign mechanic to sans the gasket all together & use rtv. That the gasket pushes alignment of the fan pulley out too far in line of the serp belt.

I have not taken the time to measure or investigate tolerances, but this guy was not someone I needed to challenge (specifically in the D2 realm)

I have done my water pumps the same since. I’ve had to replace failed pumps, never a gasket.

just sharing
 
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