Jumping off the Rotella band wagon!
#76
06-26-2017 | 08:14 PM
Camel Trophy
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 971
From: Southwestern Virginia
King Koopa, just give it up. The oil debate has been around since I became a member here, was probably around before that and will continue to be around long after. Go on a Porsche forums and ask what oil to use, see the variety of information you get in return. You are fighting a losing battle. That blog you posted, I have seen it before on this forum, and people still use what they want to use. Trust me man, just let it go.
New info is always welcome and I dont think you should try to shut anyone up on a public forum as long as they're not being a douche-hat, which Koop isn't.
#77
06-26-2017 | 09:23 PM
And I'm not trying to shut anyone up, I quoted the wrong quote from Koopa. All I was saying to him is that trying to convince people that they are using the wrong viscosity oil is just as pointless as asking , what brand toilet paper they use. This conversation has been had so many times before and never leads anywhere.
#78
06-27-2017 | 12:05 AM
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 949
Likes: 54
My initial intent was not really to start a viscosity debate, although I think a lot of you guys are ignoring what appears to me to be a very simple, no brainer situation.
What I was really interested in was possibly providing an explanation and perhaps a solution for the common issue of the rattley rover phenomena. Which I believe is often misdiagnosed as a slipped cylinder liner. When in fact, at least in my case, I believe it is the result of a well worn engine, that does not have an oil cooler. The resulting oil break down from inferior oil composition is resulting in an a low system pressure at idle. When oil breaks down, it thins out. This is more so the case with conventional oil because it is a lower weight stock that is thickened via the additive package at high Temps. Whereas full synthetic oil is a higher weight stock and is thinned out via the additive package(i believe I have that the correct way around). So not only does the superior oil resist high oil Temps, but it also retains it's operating temp viscosity even after the additive package has broken down.
The knocking my engine experiences can be very disconcerting and its nearly impossible to discern it's location. But sense it's not a "double knock" characteristic of a rod or crank bearing, I believe I can say that it's either a lifter or cam bearing, both of which would be causing the racket if oil pressure was too low at idle.
Now, tighter engines with less mileage or better lifelong upkeep can more than likely tolerate their 40 weight oil thinning out to a 30 weight or so. They can maintain the pressure to sustain a good oil film. This suggests that yes, a healthy engine will more than likely operate very adequately for a long time, even with a relatively poor choice of oil.
However, I don't and will not concede that ambient temp viscosity numbers are just arbitrary and anything you pick of the shelf will be just fine. The math says this is faulty thinking and that there is only a small minority of locations where anything over a 0w at startup is necessary or logical.
What I was really interested in was possibly providing an explanation and perhaps a solution for the common issue of the rattley rover phenomena. Which I believe is often misdiagnosed as a slipped cylinder liner. When in fact, at least in my case, I believe it is the result of a well worn engine, that does not have an oil cooler. The resulting oil break down from inferior oil composition is resulting in an a low system pressure at idle. When oil breaks down, it thins out. This is more so the case with conventional oil because it is a lower weight stock that is thickened via the additive package at high Temps. Whereas full synthetic oil is a higher weight stock and is thinned out via the additive package(i believe I have that the correct way around). So not only does the superior oil resist high oil Temps, but it also retains it's operating temp viscosity even after the additive package has broken down.
The knocking my engine experiences can be very disconcerting and its nearly impossible to discern it's location. But sense it's not a "double knock" characteristic of a rod or crank bearing, I believe I can say that it's either a lifter or cam bearing, both of which would be causing the racket if oil pressure was too low at idle.
Now, tighter engines with less mileage or better lifelong upkeep can more than likely tolerate their 40 weight oil thinning out to a 30 weight or so. They can maintain the pressure to sustain a good oil film. This suggests that yes, a healthy engine will more than likely operate very adequately for a long time, even with a relatively poor choice of oil.
However, I don't and will not concede that ambient temp viscosity numbers are just arbitrary and anything you pick of the shelf will be just fine. The math says this is faulty thinking and that there is only a small minority of locations where anything over a 0w at startup is necessary or logical.
