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Option B done on it? How is the condition of the Shuttle Valve switch insulation/wiring?
Nope, never touched the ABS system other than maintenance. Not bad for 194K miles! I'll check the wiring harness tomorrow.
FWIW, I reset the ABS faults and turned off the amigos, then drove it an hour back home and the amigos didn't come back on. Doesn't mean they won't of course, so I'd rather get ahead of it and replace whatever needs replacing.
There could be a problem with the switches, but as documented on this and other forums dozens of times in many (most?) cases the problem is a failed solder joint where a pin connects to a printed circuit buried deep in the modulator. Option B bypasses this failed solder joint and restores full ABS/TC/HDC function. Option B is inexpensive and not difficult to do; just a little tedious.
More than one forum member has replaced the shuttle valve switches in response to this code and it hasn't corrected the fault. That's because the fault can be anywhere in the SVS circuit, and the failed solder joint is a very common culprit.
The Option B procedure includes instructions for bench testing the switches to confirm whether or not they are working to spec. Plus you can do a visual inspection of the wiring in the switch module. Best4x4 has posted pics of crumbled insulation on the wiring.
I will echo mln01 on this. I am dealing with the exact same issue as Brandon318 right now – intermittent 3 amigos, able to be cleared with Nanocom, and only showing up about 10% of the time – however reading through the well-documented explanations and options (A, B & C) shared on this forum, I've determined that Option B (bypassing the SVS circuit board) is both the most likely to result in success as well as the simplest to execute.
Since my issue is only showing up about 1 out of every 10 drives right now (my trips are generally in the 3-5 mile range), I don't plan on fixing until this fall when things cool off just a bit more. I will certainly be doing this before winter snow and ice show up though...
At 194k, I would just buy a new set of shuttle valves since they are inexpensive and perform the Option B mod during the swap. 2 birds, 1 stone. You don't even have to crack open any brake lines, just loosen everything from the firewall brackets and remove the bolts holding the ABS module to the bracket. It's weird removing the screws from under the ABS module but its very doable.
the shuttle valve 'switch' is inexpensive..the other ABS 'valve' parts are not. Read about my wiring trick for the bypass if you intend to install just the new switches..... https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e4/#post771577
As other wise folks have said, you probably need to do option B (the ground wire fix). I'd replace the $40 shuttle valve switch assembly too. When you take it off, note if there's brake fluid on the top of what you remove. If so, in theory you should prob do the seals. There's a company in UK (engineering something or other) that sells the seals.
Out of curiosity, I went out and looked at the 2000 D2 I picked up last month. Only has 40K miles on it but no Option B has been done to it either, I was surprised because every disco either has 3 amigos, or option B in place!