Could that also clogg a cat?

 

it won't clog a cat but will coat a oxygen sensor. Really common on freelanders with blown headgaskets.

but the only sure fire way to tell a clogged cat is to do a compression test on the front oxygen sensor. if its clogged it will read really high around 30 psi.

 

Ok ONE week later and I got more codes (Hawkeye descriptions) in addition to the two:

Fault 23 - P0159 O2 probe post cat aging bank 2 (LEV only) max value not reached. Fault present and intermittent.

Fault 62 - P0300 misfire detection multiple cylinders (emission relevant) max value exceeded. Fault present and intermittent.

Fault 57 - P0308 Misfire Detection # 8 (emission relevant) max value exceeded. Fault NOT present and Static.

Fault 55 - P0306 Misfire Detection cyl 6 (emission relevant) max value exceeded. FAULT PRESENT and intermittent.
Fault 68 – P0306 misfire detection cyl 6 cat damage max value exceeded. Fault NOT present and static.

Fault 51 - P0302 Misfire Detection cyl 2 (emission relevant) max value exceeded. FAULT PRESENT and intermittent.
Fault 64 – p0302 misfire detection cyl 2 cat damage max val exceeded. Fault not present and intermittent.

Fault 75 - P1300 misfire detection multiple cylinders cat damage maximum value exceeded. Fault not present and intermittent

I fixed the vacuum leak at the manifold and JB welded the crack.

It started to idle a lot better. I will check the JB weld on Monday and Wednesday and if it holds up, I will order O2s and plugs.

I think these two are the culprits causing bank 2 to run lean, then dumping in fuel to correct the air:fuel ratio and there by fouling the O2s and the plugs.

Will keep updating....

thanks

 

NEED HELP!

The JB Weld fell off so I took the Y pipe down and will take it to get welded tomorrow.

Question:

There is soooooooooooooooooo much carbon build up inside the exhaust manifolds, the Y-pipe, and the rest of the system... Im afraid new O2's and spark plugs will get fouled.

Is there anyway that it can be cleaned?

Or will it all burn off and get pushed out?

Could there be damage to the cats? Will he need to buy another Y pipe?

This $hit is caked on like flour all over the inside!

 

You can tap the pipe before the cats with a rubber hammer with the pipe upside down to get anything loose off. This will also get the stuff that has fallen into the cats. Don't worry about post cats. It should all burn off though...

 

Dont buy a new Y pipe! Just replace the cats while it is off.

 

Magnaflow does make some good high flow cats for around $80 a piece. You will either need to jig it up or tack in place with the exhaust on. I paid $130 to have mine done, but they were hosed when I got it back. He tried to weld them on the truck. Tack it and pull it back off for the final weld.

 

FINISHED!!

1. Exhaust was welded and repaired ($25). Stud broke off inside manifold so I had to drill it out and re-tap it and everything went smooth. Used two new gaskets and two new studs. I tapped the Y pipe with my rubber mallet a few times and nothing came out.

2. Installed four brand new o2 sensors from AB

---- NO CODES, NO FUEL SMELL, NO ROUGH IDLE, ----

Drove it for a few days and I am assuming all the carbon inside the y pipe burned off. I rechecked the O2's and there was a light film of residual blow by. Gonna check it out again Wednesday.

3. Installed eight Bosch Platinum 4 Spark Plugs # 4418

4. Installed new serp belt

..... Another happy customer.

THANKS EVERYONE

 

I had a similar problem, failed O2 sensor bank 2 causing that bank to run rich. It sooted up the O2 sensor and caused errors with the cat and a few other fault codes as well.
Replacing the sensor (local garage) solved the problem for a few weeks and then it all started again.
So like you I bought myself a Hawkey (brilliant), reset the codes and started to sort it out myself.
When I pulled the connector apart (the one that joins the wiring harness to the O2 sensor lead) it had a lot of oil in it. I think oil had leaked down the back of the engine and by capilliary action and gravity the oil had worked its way down the wire and into the connector. Either the oil causes a short or it finds its way into the sensor itself.
I cleaned the connector thoroughly and fitted another new O2 sensor.
Two months later that sensor failed (I learn slowly) and there was oil in the connector again.
The lead from the sensor to the connector is only about a foot long and made of stainless steel or something (you cannot solder those wires).
There is very little slack in the wire so I decided to extend the wire of the wiring harness (unlike the sensor wires, the harness is copper and can be soldered).

I cut off the plug (4 wires) on the harness side, leaving a couple of inches still attached to the plug of course, and then using some similar wire from a radio shop soldered in four 18 inch long extension pieces using heat shrink tubing to insulate the joints. By extending the harness by 18 inches it made attaching the sensor so much easier and enabled me to route the cable upwards from the back of the engine to stop any oil dripping along the cable and keep it away from the exhaust manifold while routing it in such a way that it is impossible for oil to migrate down the cable from the back of the engine and into the connector.
That seems to have solved my problem.

I have been told that O2 sensors are generally quite reliable. My upstream sensors cost me about 75 pounds each and until I worked out that the problem was oil contamination in the wiring I had assumed it was the sensor that was faulty.

Best wishes from Les