Amsoil makes an SAE 30 break in oil. When I did mine, I used that for the 30 minute break in then switched to Rotella for 500 miles, then to Royal Purple. I didn't replace my bearings though. If I had then u would have used the Amsoil for the first 30, then switched and used it again for the first 500. There will be metal flakes at 30 minutes and at 500 miles. It you having a brand spanking new engine, I'd change again after 1500 miles to Rotella T6 and I'd continue using that from there on. You won't (or shouldn't) have the sloppy tolerances on a freshly rebuilt engine, so the T6 or maybe T5 should be perfect.

 

Sage advice. I hope to never again have sloppy tolerances. My 4.0 was was used engine so I take no blame for it. I'll get all blame for this one.

Alex are those break in oils common at parts places? I've never looked for them. If not I'd better get busy ordering.

 

I don't know about most parts places, but I know my local O'Reilly keeps it in Stock. I actually think most O'Reillys don't because it's an amsoil product, but could be wrong. I think both Summit and Amazon have it however.

 

I had to wait for some "dowty washers" that arrived today, so I'm going to find the lube and break in oil tomorrow. Wish me luck. This will be in operation in Sunday if I can find the break in products tomorrow. Thanks for the tips!

 

That's the most important reason to use it, or one with similar ZDDP levels. It's a quality diesel forumulated oil that's perfectly good for gasoline engines as well.
Shell's party line is, "We do not recommend for use in engines with catalytic converters that require ILSAC GF-4 specifications.", but that's because of the higher ZDDP, which you want.

Don't forget this

 

I want the ZDDP. I don't want the cats. Easy choice.

 

I haven't seen any evidence Rotella really harms the cats. I think their statement is just CYA.

 

I'm slow. But I did make a trip to get about 200 dollars worth of stuff to put in and on the engine and got two tunes of that assembly grease, plus some special flat tappet/cam product, and an additive for the non detergent SAE 30 that I bought... And two super cheap oil filters.

Then I realized I couldn't find the rear mains seal. So assembly has begun and stopped. I ordered four rear main seals from different places and it is a race to see which arrives first.

 

Why super cheap filters? How much cheaper could they be than Wix 51515, $6.50 at O'reilly, or $5.89 for a Baldwin B2 at Grainger?
IMO it's false economy to use a cheap filter on a "new" engine, even if you are going to change it soon.

 

I use Wix normally.

I got cheap because I'm changing the oil 30 minutes after I start it.