New to us 2004 Land Rover Discovery SE with engine tick/tap
4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
The "tick" when warmed up is frequently the result of a cylinder sleeve moving and striking. It starts as engine is warmed up, and may decrease with higher speed at it is thought that sleeve can't slip and slide as fast as piston is changing directions.
There are write ups on have small bolts installed into the non-contact area of the sleeve. Some people install a new engine. Some have "top hat" liners with a large rib machined and installed. see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ictures-56419/
There don't appear to be any miracle cures in a bottle that make it go away, although some say operating under heavy load with cheap gas will burn on enough deposits to slow the slip for a while.
You can reduce engine overall heat by using a 180f thermostat. A scaner or Ultra Gauge can show you the exact engine temp instead of that idiot light with a pointer gauge, it will point at 50% from about 130F - 230F.
There have been other causes of a tick, including cracked oil pumps, wrenches left inside during other major engine work, etc. The oil pump can be checked with a mechanical gauge by a shop, the repair is modest.
I'd have the oil pump test done no matter what.
There are write ups on have small bolts installed into the non-contact area of the sleeve. Some people install a new engine. Some have "top hat" liners with a large rib machined and installed. see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ictures-56419/
There don't appear to be any miracle cures in a bottle that make it go away, although some say operating under heavy load with cheap gas will burn on enough deposits to slow the slip for a while.
You can reduce engine overall heat by using a 180f thermostat. A scaner or Ultra Gauge can show you the exact engine temp instead of that idiot light with a pointer gauge, it will point at 50% from about 130F - 230F.
There have been other causes of a tick, including cracked oil pumps, wrenches left inside during other major engine work, etc. The oil pump can be checked with a mechanical gauge by a shop, the repair is modest.
I'd have the oil pump test done no matter what.
A quick followup to this thread, I have installed my 180 tstat last week and so far so good with the tick/tap. Its MUCH more intermittent now. I only heard it once in the week we have been driving it and was not as loud. I was watching my temps with the ELM ODBII dongle, got as high as 215 at idle very briefly but came back to to about 197 or so. Was about about 188 at highway speeds ~70mph. Temps during that trip where around 32 - 40 outside.
Oil levels are good and got a slight drip from around the oil pan gasket. Have not tested the oil pressure, but plan on switching to 15w40 next change as it warms up for good measure. Running 5w30 now.
Oil levels are good and got a slight drip from around the oil pan gasket. Have not tested the oil pressure, but plan on switching to 15w40 next change as it warms up for good measure. Running 5w30 now.
If you paid what most Disco's are worth now 5-7k, and since you aren't really having mechanical problems besides the noise. I'd say install the 180 stat and keep rolling. Most of these ticks don't mean much and are just owners nit picking. However you paid a premium price for what should be a prime Disco. You could have potentially got an LR3. I'd take it back and tell them to fix it. But it depends how much you think pursuing justice is worth. It will be a hassle to get them to do the work. But it sounds like she's running smooth now from your latest post.
Another thing that should quiet your tick is to stop running 5w-30. Only run 40 or 50 weight oil in these engines, and I'd do it sooner rather than later. I've run 15w-40 or 20w-50 since ownership. I run a 180 stat and have no ticks to speak of. You've only got 64k on yours, treat her right and she'll last a long time.
Your temperatures aren't too high but they aren't as good as they should be. With a 180 stat you should at least be running 195 consistently. If they really replaced all of the things they said then you shouldn't be close to 215F. I rarely touch 201F. But that could also be your radiator starting to clog. Is it running dexcool?(red coolant) If so you should consider a full flush of the system, a switch to green coolant and a proper bleed. Then see where your temps lie.
Another thing that should quiet your tick is to stop running 5w-30. Only run 40 or 50 weight oil in these engines, and I'd do it sooner rather than later. I've run 15w-40 or 20w-50 since ownership. I run a 180 stat and have no ticks to speak of. You've only got 64k on yours, treat her right and she'll last a long time.
Your temperatures aren't too high but they aren't as good as they should be. With a 180 stat you should at least be running 195 consistently. If they really replaced all of the things they said then you shouldn't be close to 215F. I rarely touch 201F. But that could also be your radiator starting to clog. Is it running dexcool?(red coolant) If so you should consider a full flush of the system, a switch to green coolant and a proper bleed. Then see where your temps lie.
If it is the slipping sleeve, how much damage is it doing to the engine? It seems like there are a lot of people that keep driving it that way. Will it keep running with the sleeve slipping, or will it eventually wreck the head, or destroy the engine? My concern is that we bought it to get to remote locations for nature photography. I really don't want it to die 40 miles from nowhere, leaving us in a really bad situation.
Thanks,
Paul
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 820
Likes: 230
From: Boston, MA
If you paid what most Disco's are worth now 5-7k, and since you aren't really having mechanical problems besides the noise. I'd say install the 180 stat and keep rolling. Most of these ticks don't mean much and are just owners nit picking. However you paid a premium price for what should be a prime Disco. You could have potentially got an LR3. I'd take it back and tell them to fix it. But it depends how much you think pursuing justice is worth. It will be a hassle to get them to do the work. But it sounds like she's running smooth now from your latest post.
Another thing that should quiet your tick is to stop running 5w-30. Only run 40 or 50 weight oil in these engines, and I'd do it sooner rather than later. I've run 15w-40 or 20w-50 since ownership. I run a 180 stat and have no ticks to speak of. You've only got 64k on yours, treat her right and she'll last a long time.
Your temperatures aren't too high but they aren't as good as they should be. With a 180 stat you should at least be running 195 consistently. If they really replaced all of the things they said then you shouldn't be close to 215F. I rarely touch 201F. But that could also be your radiator starting to clog. Is it running dexcool?(red coolant) If so you should consider a full flush of the system, a switch to green coolant and a proper bleed. Then see where your temps lie.
Another thing that should quiet your tick is to stop running 5w-30. Only run 40 or 50 weight oil in these engines, and I'd do it sooner rather than later. I've run 15w-40 or 20w-50 since ownership. I run a 180 stat and have no ticks to speak of. You've only got 64k on yours, treat her right and she'll last a long time.
Your temperatures aren't too high but they aren't as good as they should be. With a 180 stat you should at least be running 195 consistently. If they really replaced all of the things they said then you shouldn't be close to 215F. I rarely touch 201F. But that could also be your radiator starting to clog. Is it running dexcool?(red coolant) If so you should consider a full flush of the system, a switch to green coolant and a proper bleed. Then see where your temps lie.
Gonna drop the pan next oil change to stop the small leak of oil before it gets any worse and check out the bottom end while in there. I switch to 15w40 then, 10w30 is what the dealer put in.
On another note, out of the blue today the battery was dead. Sat for less than 24 hours. Tested the alternator and the battery is only a couple months old. Both tested fine and let the disco run for about 40 mins to recharge. Nothing was left on or any doors ajar that I could see. Its garaged and temps where in the 40s. If it does it again will have the try the bulb test and start pulling fuses. The disco sat unused for 4 days about a week ago in 10 degree weather and started without issue.
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 820
Likes: 230
From: Boston, MA
Got mine at AB. Its the warm weather tstat. Little pricier than most but really fast shipping.
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 820
Likes: 230
From: Boston, MA
Figured I would update this as its been a while now and the warm weather is here (99 here yesterday). Various little items in the past six months of ownership (see my other threads) but so far so good. I switched to Rotella 15w40 about 3 weeks ago, the engine was a little chattier for a couple days after the change but has quieted down a lot. The tick/tap we had mentioned before has been reduced to a very light tick and only heard every so often. For me, switching to the 180 tstat and running Rotella seems to have done the trick at least for now.
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 820
Likes: 230
From: Boston, MA
Thanks. As long as the mechanicals hold now on to cosmetic issues. On the list are:
1. Sagging headliner
2. Boot gaiters
3. Fix slightly warping dash
4. Replace cracked tail lights (very minor but I am ****
)
5. Clear hazing headlamps.
6. Paint or replace wheel wheel arch covers
This is my wifes grocery getter and her dream truck, she has always wanted one. Got a weekly check list of stuff to check (fluids, etc) to make sure I dont get "that" call at work. SWMBO indeed
1. Sagging headliner
2. Boot gaiters
3. Fix slightly warping dash
4. Replace cracked tail lights (very minor but I am ****
)5. Clear hazing headlamps.
6. Paint or replace wheel wheel arch covers
This is my wifes grocery getter and her dream truck, she has always wanted one. Got a weekly check list of stuff to check (fluids, etc) to make sure I dont get "that" call at work. SWMBO indeed
4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
Thanks. As long as the mechanicals hold now on to cosmetic issues. On the list are:
1. Sagging headliner
2. Boot gaiters
3. Fix slightly warping dash
4. Replace cracked tail lights (very minor but I am **** )
5. Clear hazing headlamps.
6. Paint or replace wheel wheel arch covers
This is my wifes grocery getter and her dream truck, she has always wanted one. Got a weekly check list of stuff to check (fluids, etc) to make sure I dont get "that" call at work. SWMBO indeed
1. Sagging headliner
2. Boot gaiters
3. Fix slightly warping dash
4. Replace cracked tail lights (very minor but I am ****
)5. Clear hazing headlamps.
6. Paint or replace wheel wheel arch covers
This is my wifes grocery getter and her dream truck, she has always wanted one. Got a weekly check list of stuff to check (fluids, etc) to make sure I dont get "that" call at work. SWMBO indeed
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 820
Likes: 230
From: Boston, MA
Sounds almost exactly like my list. Must be common problems with these. I also put in the 180 deg thermostat a couple months back, and I haven't really heard the tick since. I'm still reluctant to drive it any time I might get caught in traffic though, as the temperatures here in Phoenix are starting to be consistently over 100 deg.