10-4, pulling it apart now..

 

You can clearly see crank timing chain mark at 9:00 position, cam is at about 10:30, if this is anywhere remotely close to where they were when disassembled...they'd be off by my calculations. Since the crank rotates clockwise, and if you could rotate crank so timing mark was straight up (and the chain was on, in the positions they are now), the cam shaft mark would most likely be at the top...instead of the bottom (prefectly aligned like picture supplied).

However, you said everything rotated originally, after installing timing gears and chain and marks were aligned properly...so...l'm stumped as to what changed all of a sudden.

l'm having a hard time wrapping my head around this whole thing, this is pretty straight forward job...you saiying it originally rotated after installation...another puzzler as to why it doesn't now.

The only thing that comes to mind is...you didn't have timing marks right and when you cranked it over the first time, which you said it cranked briefly, and you bent a bunch of valves. Don't mean to sound rude about it...but for the life of me...that's all l got.

Good luck.

 

Since the crank rotates twice for every rotation of the cam the timing could be correct by the picture. If you mentally turn the crank 90 degrees that would turn the cam 45 degrees, so now both marks are facing up (which you don’t want) however, if you mentally rotate the crank one full turn from this point now the crank timing mark is facing up and the cam is facing down (because it has only rotated 180 degrees) which would be correct.

 

Cam turns, crank is still a No Go. Pulling the heads tomorrow.

 

@bmeier I feel for you, at this point you should be able to turn the cam through 360 with no issues. All those valves appear to be in the top position.

A random thought could the flywheel be jammed

 

Only other thing the crank would be connected to = flexplate, and the torque converter. It would really suck to tear the engine down to find for some reason the tranny is frozen... This is a crazy deal for sure.

 

Its personal now, this **** don't have a choice. Its cool though, its good Zen working on it. Stuff needs replacing anyways. I did not replace anything when I did the HG way back when so its over due. Should I pull the crank too or just the heads ?
Maybe I should put it in gear and try to push it around, without a crank, would that eliminate or hint at a frozen tranny?

 

Hmmm I don't know enough about automatics, but I am pretty sure a dead transmission will not stop an engine from turning over. Worst case put it neutral and see if anything changes. Also try renting an inspection camera and look around the flywheel see if anything is binding a the top.

Another random thought hydrolocked ? Have you pulled the plugs just in case, before you get to head gaskets, you can hydrolock from fuel as well as water.

 

Just to be clear, it's the CAMSHAFT (larger gear cog at the top of the engine that opens/closes the valves), NOT the CRANKSHAFT (smaller gear cog, accessible by the removed oil pan) that won't rotate, correct?

Earlier we were talking about the cam, but in the last post with pictures you explained it the opposite "Cam turns, crank is still a No Go. Pulling the heads tomorrow."

 

Yep, so the camshaft will rotate freely now, the crank is still seized up. spark plugs are out too. the next logical step would be to pull the heads correct? I've never removed a crank while still in vehicle before, always been on an engine stand. I'm assuming this crank can come out from the bottom just fine, eh?