Okay, so I ordered the radiator . . .
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,064
Likes: 16
From: San Antonio,Tx
I just got done doing this job. After reading people say that they were able to get it out with just removing the battery box and air filter box I gave it a try. In the end it was just to much of a PITA to do it that way so I followed the RAVE and got it done in no time. I my opinion it is better to follow the RAVE instructions.
Tips:
1)you don't need to drain from the engine block plugs just pull the top and bottom hoses from the radiator and let it drain.
2)Use 2 or 3 small washers on the top radiator screws so that they do not go to deep and puncture the new radiator.
3)You do not have to disconnect the oil and trans cooler lines if you take out the engine fan. (it is a tight fit but it will go in and out without disconnecting them. If you do disconnect them then make sure you clean the ends really well before reconnecting them because I have heard a few stories of them blowing off under pressure and covering the engine bay in oil =NOT GOOD
4)you may want to tape 2 pieces of cardboard on both sides on the radiator while you are installing it to make sure it doesn't get damaged.
5)There is a rubber seal type pieces on the top and the bottom of the old radiator that need to be swapped over to the new one. (I forgot to do this and didn't notice until I had the new one in and half way bolted down. I had to pull it back out to put the bottom one back on.)
Tips:
1)you don't need to drain from the engine block plugs just pull the top and bottom hoses from the radiator and let it drain.
2)Use 2 or 3 small washers on the top radiator screws so that they do not go to deep and puncture the new radiator.
3)You do not have to disconnect the oil and trans cooler lines if you take out the engine fan. (it is a tight fit but it will go in and out without disconnecting them. If you do disconnect them then make sure you clean the ends really well before reconnecting them because I have heard a few stories of them blowing off under pressure and covering the engine bay in oil =NOT GOOD
4)you may want to tape 2 pieces of cardboard on both sides on the radiator while you are installing it to make sure it doesn't get damaged.
5)There is a rubber seal type pieces on the top and the bottom of the old radiator that need to be swapped over to the new one. (I forgot to do this and didn't notice until I had the new one in and half way bolted down. I had to pull it back out to put the bottom one back on.)
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 45
Take it all out as one unit.
That means the 4 cooler lines detached.
Trying to get the coolers off whilst the radiator is in the rover - is simply crazy.
You need to get the grille off.
That is a long screw driver into the wheel wells.
I posted a complete description on this BB for this process a few months ago.
You need to get the 10mm nuts out that hold the collars.
And, yes= you need to take out the horns.
And get a bolt under the foam for each side.
Yes, that is true.
Finally you can pull it all out in one unit.
Swap the parts when the radiators are side by side and put the new one in.
That means the 4 cooler lines detached.
Trying to get the coolers off whilst the radiator is in the rover - is simply crazy.
You need to get the grille off.
That is a long screw driver into the wheel wells.
I posted a complete description on this BB for this process a few months ago.
You need to get the 10mm nuts out that hold the collars.
And, yes= you need to take out the horns.
And get a bolt under the foam for each side.
Yes, that is true.
Finally you can pull it all out in one unit.
Swap the parts when the radiators are side by side and put the new one in.
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