My son did not close the door all the way so as we were driving I had him open and close the door. When we got home the door would not open. It would unlock but could not be opened from the inside or the outside. I got the door panel off enough feel the lock moving uo and down and the door handle engages. Still cannot get the door open. Any ideas??? It is driving me crazy! Please help!

 

The D2 lock motors have the "lock/unlock" section, and a separate (but in the same case) superlock motor. Superlock disables the indoor handles as well. It is pins 7 & 8 on the connector inside the door, it also appears on other connectors in the kick panel. A relay module on the back of the fuse block send a voltage to in one polarity to lock, and another to unlock. Pin 7 is shared by the actual door lock (moves pull tab up/down).

In the header connector under the steering wheel, which may be easier to get to, pin 10 is lock/unlock, pin 2 is superlock on/off, and pin 18 is common between the two motors. A volt meter between 18 an 2 would show 12 volts of one polarity for a brief pulse when locking, and the same volts but reversed polarity when unlocking superlock. If it is, the cable harness going thru door frame could be at issue. If so, you might be able to pull the cable out inside the door and apply volts there.

Or as the lock smith sayz - "It's time for Slim Jim"

 

So I am a novice when it comes to this. When I use the volt meter is it supposed to disengage the superlock?

 

No. The voltmeter will tell you if voltage is present (either positive or negative) when you push the unlock button. If volts are there, and no sound, then it will most likely be the motor. If no voltage, we can look in a different direction. And getting to the kick panel with the door superlocked will mean you can skip the yoga classes this week... Wonder if you could get a discount price for driving to a locksmith.