So I was going to re-seal my t-case inspection plate again because it just didn't take the first time. I don't think I let the RTV cure long enough before I put the oil back in. Yesterday I went to take the plate off and one of the bolt heads just fell out as soon as I went to loosen it. Left about a millimeter of thread sticking out of the t-case. I tried to twist it out with pliers, but no go. There just wasn't enough there to get it to turn.

What is the likelihood that I could seal the plate if I left the bolt in place and resealed as is? Bad move? Thankfully it's not a corner bolt, it is one of the 10mm bolts on the rear of the plate, closer to the driver's side. Like right under the fill plug.

I think I'm going to give it a shot and see if it leaks. That bolt does not have a hole going into the t-case itself, so that is a plus. If that doesn't work, I'll have to get a screw extractor and try to get it out and get a new one.

Have people had good luck with screw/bolt extractors?

 

Theres no tension on the bolt. Try a left-hand drill bit.

 

those extractors work pretty well. but with those small ones I usually just drill a small hole in the bolt center and and upon reversal of drill bit, the bolt will usually back off enough to get a grip on.

 

Center punch the broken bolt prior to drilling. Clean up the broken end if possible with a file (not getting into the sealing face of course). This will prevent headaches down the road of a off center hole. I hate easy-outs btw. Allot of the times you end up with a broken extractor in a broken bolt and you cant drill out the hardened extractor. I doubt the bolt is stuck fast though. Not allot of heat/corrosion going on there so the extractor should back it right out. Don't put side/uneven pressure on it. That's the cause of allot of extractor breakage as they are hardened/brittle. A tap handle is the best tool. Wrench=broken extractor if you aren't careful. Not trying to scare you, just a heads up.

 

"So I was going to re-seal my t-case inspection plate again because it just didn't take the first time. I don't think I let the RTV long enough before I put the oil back in."
THAT IS WHY I NO LONGER EVER USE RTV; I USE ONLY AVIATION CEMENT, WITH LAND ROVER GASKETS; THEY SEAL PERFECTLY EVERY TIME, LONG TIME!
" Yesterday I went to take the plate off and one of the bolt heads just fell out as soon as I went to loosen it. Left about a millimeter of thread sticking out of the t-case. I tried to twist it out with pliers, but no go. There just wasn't enough there to get it to turn." MY BROTHER WAS GOOD AT THIS, BREAKING OFF BOLTS; YEARS LATER, I CAN STILL HEAR THE TING BREAKING NOISE WHEN I AM TRYING TO SLEEP!

"What is the likelihood that I could seal the plate if I left the bolt in place and resealed as is? Bad move? Thankfully it's not a corner bolt, it is one of the 10mm bolts on the rear of the plate, closer to the drivers side. Like right under the fill plug." NOT LIKELY THAT YOU COULD SEAL IT AS IS---I HAVE BEEN THERE; DONE THAT IN SEALING THIS, AND FOUND BEST WAY IS TO DO IT RIGHT, AND YOU ALREADY KNOW WHAT THE RIGHT WAY IS!

"I think I'm going to give it a shot and see if it leaks. That bolt does not have a hole going into the t-case itself, so that is a plus. If that doesn't work, I'll have to get a screw extractor and try to get it out and get a new one." ODDS ARE, THAT IT WILL LEAK, TO SOME DEGREE, SO I WOULD DO IT RIGHT, IF I WERE YOU.

"Have people had good luck with screw/bolt extractors?" DO AS OTHERS HAVE SUGGESTED HERE; IT WILL WORK IF YOU DO IT CAREFULLY. REMEMBER, "EASY OUTS" IN NO WAY MAKE IT EASY TO TAKE OUT BROKEN BOLTS, AT LEAST IN MY EXPERIENCE; IF YOU BREAK ONE OFF IN DRILLED OUT HOLE, WELL YOUR PROBLEMS HAVE ONLY JUST BEGUN!

 

Well good news, I had good luck with my harbor freight $8 screw extractor set. Tapped the extractor in there with a hammer, wrenched it counter clock-wise and the bolt came right out! So that was a good small victory.

Now if I can just get this stupid thing to actually seal this time. When I took off the plate this morning, some of the silicone hadn't even dried all the way more than a week later! So I think that was my problem, that the silicone didn't quite dry and cure all the way last time. I waited 24 hours and then refilled with oil, but after a couple drives it started weeping. This time I think I'm going to wait 3-4 days before I put oil back in just be to sure that the silicone actually dries all the way first.

I think this is by far the most frustrating fix I've had yet. This is my 4th attempt. If I can't get this time... it's to the shop. Where they'll probably find some $1,000 fix for it...

 

just remember to let it semi cure before tightening all the way

 

Ya I just tightened the bolts a little more than hand tight. Will tighten them up later this after noon.

 

well, then I will just say a prayer to the rover Gods for ya. good luck