On cluster: S indicator never lights up during the test phase. M one lights up as its supposed to.

M mode works in low range. So do all the other gadgets (traction, hd etc)

Sport mode doesnt work. Never did.

Nothing visually wrong with the switch and its contacts.

Have not checked the one on the side of the trans by the bowden cable but can that one even cause the sport mode to completely disappear so to speak?

Ideas? I dont care to get it working, just wondering why it wouldnt work when everything else works. It has been bugging me for a few months now

 

The tranny sends out the + volts on a yellow and red wire, pin 25 of C0193, big cable under seat. That ends up at dash cluster on pin 4 of connector C0230. There is a small bulb inside, the drawing shows it as bulb, not LED. Now you could meter these points to check for voltage, but getting to the cluster connector seems like a bigger job. If you read for ohms from the connector under the seat toward the dash, should see resistance to ground if bulb is installed and filament is good. With connector apart, you could jumper from pin 26 (purple yellow), which is +12 volts, to pin 25, the light. Do this on the connector side NOT going toward tranny. Don't leave jumper installed.

Note: this may be one of those things that just a'int worth it, but for some people it would be reason to put the truck on craigslist today. Because if the bulb tests good, the tranny ECU is next thing....

 

Sometimes my 01' won't indicate that it's in sport mode yet I can feel it change the shift points. I know it works, just doesn't always show on the cluster every time. Annoying...

 

good stuff. Will give it a go when i have some spare time in the next few days. Im probably going to pull the cluster first as i need to custom wire some switches to the binnacle anyway, and because i love pulling clusters.

Do trans ecu require coding or is it drop and plug? Used parts cheap all over the place if its that. i need to change my wiper stalk and the genuine part is like 330$. I laughed. I'll chance it with the 5$ used one.

 

1. see attached, there appears to be a slight conflict between sections of the RAVE. The drawings show a regular bulb, with watts; the text shows LEDs, most likely soldered in place.

2. text says light should come on at POST (power on self test) for 3 seconds.

3. tranny ECU has codes that testbook can read, but if it must be re-programmed I don't know, did not see anything about that.

4. All DIY mechanics and student drivers should visit a salvage yard.....

 

Other then the Sport light doesn't come on, how do you know that that function is in-op? It may be something as simple as a bad light in the cluster.

 

0 difference in shift points. from what i've read, it should be rather noticable, like upshifts in the 3k range

 

It won't quite upshift at 3k unless you are on the gas about 3/4 or more. You will notice it kicks down sooner when in sport mode and will not short shift (shifting really early) during normal driving like it does in regular mode.

 

hrm. it might as well be the cluster light then. rover is in the shed so one of these days cluster is coming out. i want to get another car off the lift before i start taking this one apart. i have a personal rule about having 2 "up in the air" at the same time.